Barnstormer Bipe (oz13936)
About this Plan
Barnstormer Bipe. Control line sport model, for Cub .049 engine.
Quote: "Young Half-A engine owners with a yen for something quick, purty, and sure fire in controlliners can make this model in an evening or two. Full size parts. Barnstormer Bipe, by William Mack.
Here's a sharp-looking little biplane - and also easy to build. For best results, select wood carefully with an eye toward keeping the weight down as much as possible. Chose medium hard stock for the fuselage; very hard balsa for the wing struts; light balsa for the wings, tail surfaces and pod blocks.
Speed up production by using the full size part templates printed on these pages and you'll be able to turn out your Barnstormer Bipe in an easy evening's work. The original job was first tested with an old K & B but this has now been replaced by the new Cub .049A. Any similar size motor may be fitted with firewall patterns B and C being modified accordingly.
The construction is almost as easy as building an all-sheet hand-launched glider, so we'll skip most of the usual details and cover the important points only. First of all, for successful flying, the controls must work easily and the wheels move freely. Note that the motor is offset to the right and the rear edge of the rudder is also angled to keep the model pulling toward the outside of the circle. Another trick that is helpful in maintaining taut lines on small ships of this type is to weight the outside wing tip (lower) with a small piece of solder (about 1/8 oz).
The actual construction should be started by cutting out the wood parts, using the full size parts as templates. Round off the fuselage (A) edges with sandpaper, except at the points at which the flying surfaces attach. Sandwich the landing gear and C filler between the B firewall pieces, then attach the firewall-landing gear assembly to the fuselage.
Carve the four engine pod pieces to the shape shown on the plan and install the 1/16 aluminum bellcrank (D) to the fuselage. Next, cement the engine pod pieces in position. Cut pieces of black tissue to the cabin pattern and dope them to the fuselage.
The wings (E and F) and tail surfaces (G and H) are formed in the usual manner, with the upper surfaces being sanded to the airfoil sections. Note that the wing slots must be angled to accommodate the struts correctly. Join the two rudder pieces (I and J) flat on the building board and round off the edges (except at the bottom). Make the elevator hinges from 1/4 in wide pieces of cloth, nylon or bandage and check carefully that the elevator moves up and down freely.
Cement the wings, stabilizer and rudder in position, using plenty of cement, checking that the shrinking action of the cement does not pull them out of line. Now add the wing struts (K). Install the elevator horn (L), pushrod and lead-out wires. Note that the latter pass through the plywood line guide (M), which is cemented to the inside wing strut.
As lightness is of primary importance, the model should not be color-doped. Give the entire ship several coats of clear dope and sand lightly between coats with very fine sandpaper (preferably No.2-80 wet or dry type). Attractive colors can be made by adding analine dyes to clear dope while decals will add to the appearance of the finished ship, without adding excessive weight. To eliminate the chances of the dope warping the flying surfaces, plasticize the dope before use with a few drops of castor oil.
Use a fuelproof dope (Butyrate) or, if a regular dope finish has been applied, give the entire ship a coat of fuelproofer. Be careful not to get the fuelproofer on the control mechanism or on the engine as it will gum up the system. Attach 30-ft lines to the lead-out wires and your Barnstormer Bipe is ready for its first check-out. Typical ready-to-fly weight for this design should work out at around the 4 oz mark."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 11/7/2022: Replaced the article with a clearer copy, thanks to Pit.
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User commentsThe article is credited to William Mack - was that maybe a fake name for Bill Dean? The plan says Bill Dean, but that might have been just a credit for drafting up the plan, not actual design. Anyone know more on this one?
SteveWMD - 09/07/2022
Bill Dean inked many plans of others modellers, he started in UK and ended in USA in 1953. In this case too he was the inker, see also oz2511 for confirmation of the practice.
for more on Bill see:
pit - 10/07/2022
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