Flying Fortress (oz13932)


Flying Fortress (oz13932) by Robert Buenzly 1971 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Flying Fortress. Control line sport novelty model. Wingspan 27-1/2 in. For McCoy 19 engine.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 7/7/2022: Added article, thanks to Pit.

Quote: "Flying Fortress, by Robert Buenzly. The Flying Fortress is a sport ship that is really different! Originally designed as a Sunday fun ship, it was entered in a Novelty event at a Northern New Jersey contest. Despite a heavy rain storm, it flew well and added another trophy to my collection. Needless to say, this ship attracts attention wherever it is displayed and flown.

Construction is simple and uses standard size readily available balsa, The fuselage sides and upper and lower decks are cut from 1/4 in balsa. Glue the motor mounts to the underside of the upper deck, applying the glue liberally. Glue formers Ft through F7 in place. This assembly is then glued to the left fuselage side. (A 90-degree triangle can be used to keep the top deck perpendicular to the fuselage side.) Let dry, then glue the right side in place.

Form the landing gear from 1/32 wire and solder the front and rear pieces to the axle. This assembly is fastened to the motor mounts with J bolts, then the hardwood belicrank mount is glued and bolted to the motor mounts. The bellcrank mount nestles in the slot provided in the top deck and must be bolted securely in place. Then glue the bottom deck into position.

While waiting for the completed fuselage to dry, cut the wing from a 1/4 x 3 x 27-1/2 in piece of hard balsa. In the wing, cut out the slots which will provide for the plywood dihedral gauges. Then crack the wing in two places and pin the center section to the work board. The outboard panels are raised to the correct dihedral position and braced. Glue the plywood dihedral gauges in place. Also coat the wing cracks with cement. Then the 1/4 x 3/4 trailing edge is glued to the rear edge of the wing. When the wing assembly is dry, it is glued to the bottom of the fuselage in the notch provided. Mount the wing (drawbridge) leadout in place, using glue and small wood screws.

The front and rear towers (rudders) are cut from 1/8 balsa and glued in place. The stabilizer is made from 1/8 hard balsa and glued to the top of the rear towers. Using hinges and a control horn of your choice, mount the elevator to the rear of the stabilizer. Then add the top pieces of the rear towers to the stabilizer.

A small building-like structure is built to enclose the fuel tank behind the engine. Williams Brothers Wheels are used. 1 made the pushrod from very hard balsa with the control rods mounted securely in each end.

The castle is painted grey and is trimmed with black dope or, if time permits, the walls may be sculptured. The drawbridge chain was obtained from the model ship department in a local hobby shop. The bottom deck is hinged to allow a miniature basket of bowmen to parachute to the earth while the Fortress is in flight. I used Robin Hood figures made by Airfix to guard the Fort. For safety, remove them before flying.

A McCoy 19 supplies ample power, and the use of throttle control is recommended. Once the engine quits, the glide isn't exactly the best you'll ever see. Aside from this, the Fortress is a smooth-flying, stable airplane. "

Supplementary file notes



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Flying Fortress (oz13932) by Robert Buenzly 1971 - model pic


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