About this Plan
Fli-Wing. Rubber sport model. Wingspan 17-1/2 in.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 28/4/2022: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
Quote: "A tail-less rubber powered sportster, designed with the beginner in mind. Fli-Wing, by Ray Malmstrom.
FLYING-WING MODELS, especially rubber-powered ones, seem to be a rather neglected type. This is rather a pity, because a flying-wing model will fly as well as any other more orthodox model aircraft - moreover they are delightfully stall-free when correctly trimmed. Because of their different 'profile' in the air flying-wings always attract attention on the flying field, so if you are feeling in need of a bit of attention - and some real flying, here is Fli-Wing, designed with YOU in mind.
Fuselage: Build two identical fuselage sides over the plan. Add 1/16. sheet pieces A,B,C,D and gussets E,F (Sketch 1); join fuselage sides with cross-pieces (see plan). Use a set square to avoid twists - Sketch 2. Add pieces G,H,J,K,L,M and end-plate N. Cover with lightweight tissue, leaving open at wing position, and under bay at end for rubber motor access. Water shrink and give one coat of clear dope, thinned 50%.
Form the main undercarriage from 20 swg wire, bending the top portion, preferably in a vice, to give the backward angle to the legs. Fit lightweight 3/4 in diameter plastic wheels, retained by a piece of tight-fitting electrical plastic tubing, or a blob of cement. Form the nose wheel leg in the same way. Cut a small wheel from 1/4 in sheet balsa, sand to section, give two coats of dope, and retain on leg as for main undercarriage.
The undercarriage units are cemented to pieces J,K and retained in position by three layers of tissue doped on. Insert a length of 1/16 diameter dowel through holes in piece D. The cockpit canopy can be cut (as we did on our original Fli-Wing) from the end of a clear plastic toothbrush container or use a small commercial bubble canopy.
Fin: Cut from it 1/16 sheet. Round edges and give one coat of clear dope. Cement to fuselage pieces L,M and plate N. Cut and shape from block the two exhaust tubes P, and cut off a rear piece from each (Sketch 3). Hollow out the main section tubes and give a coat of clear, then silver dope. Cement exhaust tubes to end plate N. Do not cement rear piece onto tubes at this stage.
Noseblock-propeller Assembly: Cut noseblock (Q) and spigot (R) from 1/4 in sheet. Cement together, drill to take a length of aluminium or brass tubing (internal diameter to fit 18 swg wire). Cut two 1/32 ply discs, and cement to front and rear to lock tubing in place (Sketch 4). Give noseblock three coats of clear dope, after sanding to shape.
Bend a winding hook at the end of a length of 18 s.w.g. piano wire. The original model uses a Veron 5 in. diameter balsa propeller. These propellers are ready carved, and only require the back of the blades to be sandpapered a little to give a concave section, reinforced through the centre hole with a short length of aluminium or brass tubing, and given three coats of clear dope, sanding lightly between each coat. Unfortunately, these props are now no longer made, although your local shop may still have some in stock. As an alternative the KeilKraff 5 in diameter plastic prop may also be used.
Mount the propeller on the 18 swg length of wire, slip on two cup washers and finally the noseblock. Then form the hook for the rubber motor. Add a drop of oil to the propeller shaft and make sure it revolves freely.
Assemble the free-wheel as shown on the plan. Fit the noseblock propeller assembly in place, making sure that it is a good push fit, but not too tight.
Wing: The wing is built in two outer panels and a centre-section which are constructed over the plan. Use the 3/32 sheet wing rib jig to obtain the correct incline of the wing panel roof ribs (R1-Sketch 5). Assemble completed panels to centre-section, noting reinforcing piece S on centre-section. Use the wing dihedral jigs (3/32 sheet) to ensure that you have equal dihedral under each wing tip..."
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