Glorious Gladys (oz13596)

 

Glorious Gladys (oz13596) by Peter Antram 1996 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Glorious Gladys. Free flight biplane sport model, for Mills .75 engine. Wingspan 32.5 in.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "Hi Steve & Mary, Glorious Gladys, F/F biplane by Pete Antram. Sorry no further information. Cheers,"

Update 31/1/2022: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "Free flighting with our Free Plan for an inter-war style biplane. Glorious Gladys, by Peter Antram.

It all started when I was flying a Bert Striegler model [see Roaring 20 (oz3675)] and realised that this type of flying design could be 'adjusted' to resemble a number of between wars prototypes. So, a design was made with the Gladiator in mind. Presto, Gladys was born, and jolly good fun she's been too. I suggest you start by making up a kit, cutting basic fuselage sides, formers, wing ribs by your favourite method and wire parts.

The fuselage is basic 1/16 sheet box with curved formers on the sides (the 'A' formers), planked with 1/16 forward, and with strip and square stringers at the back to give a half metal, half fabric effect.

After binding and epoxying the undercarriage wires to F2 and F3, assemble to the engine bearers with epoxy. Bind the cabane wires to F4 and F5, then assemble the basic fuselage sides and formers after marking the former positions onto the sides, I find this straightforward using cyano for balsa epoxy for ply. The stringers on the top deck give it shape and the strip stringers at the back help with a more Gladiator-like profile.

The 'A' formers are then added to the basic box forward fuselage and you can then plank the whole forward fuselage I fmd it helps if the sheet is soaked and wrapped round a soft drink bottle and left to dry overnight. You will need the base of the bottle for the cowl later. Note how the strip stringers form the tail platform.

At the nose, F1 is used to secure the cowl. Bottle bottoms come in a selection of colours; I have black, red and green in stock. The spinner rings have been found to greatly reduce the chances of a broken crankshaft or case in the inevitable arrivals of free flight. The ring should barely clear the rear of the spinner to be effective. Ensure you obtain about 3° right thrust as this will help in getting the ideal left, left, trimmed flight pattern.

Fit the wing and tailplane band pegs. I use Kebab sticks which are bamboo and perfect. Also fit the cockpit floor, and the bottom sheeting, including the lower wing mount. The top wing rails and cabane fairings will be found easier to fit after covering the fuselage. I hope the wing and tail structures will be found straightforward. I build left, right and centre and then join up the panels at the correct dihedral angle and secure with the dihedral braces, ribs W2 and gussets.

The slight differences between the top and bottom wings set off the Gladiator look and are well worth the trouble. You may feel the structure is a little rugged, but in the last year's rough and tumble, only the spinner and the undercarriage wire have broken, the wire in the presence of DB himself (oh, the shame!). The gauge has been increased on the plan.

If you are attracted to the colour scheme on the model it's based on that which was used on the Old Warden Gladiator, before the present rather dull camouflage scheme. Photo Pack references are available and will give control surface details etc. I used silver Solarfilm but you all have your own favourite materials. Binding the fairings of cabane and undercarriage with silver Solartex strengthened them greatly. Sources of canopy, cowl, wheels and pilot are indicated on the plan.

Roundels are by David Boden Graphics, while the squadron markings are of Solarfilm and the letters Letraset and Solartrim.

Check that the centre of gravity is in the area shown and do the traditional test glides on a calm day over long grass. A fair heave is needed.

Pack lower wing trailing edge to cure a dive, leading edge to correct a stall. It shouldn't need much. If a reasonable fast flat glide results, go onto short low power flights. If all seems OK on power a wide left turn is best with transition to a left glide obtained by the trim tab. Even on full power, this is no screaming climber, on a calm day a full tank can be used. When you get it right, the ground's right and the wind's right, she will take off, fly round and land very prettily.

I hope you enjoy your Glorious Gladys as much as I have mine. Happy Landings."

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Glorious Gladys (oz13596) by Peter Antram 1996 - model pic

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