About this Plan
KK Gypsy. A 40 inch span rubber model.
Update 14/06/2013: Added printwood formers, thanks to vintage1.
Update 02/04/2021: Added kit instructions, thanks to AdrianCulf.
Quote: "BEFORE COMMENCING CONSTRUCTION, READ RIGHT THROUGH THESE INSTRUCTIONS. Study the plans and the parts of the kit as you do so and make sure that you know where and when each part is fitted. Use a modelling knife to cut out the printed parts and when cutting straight lines, use a steel ruler as a cutting guide. Joints in balsa wood are much stronger if the two surfaces to be joined are lightly coated with cement which is allowed to dry. They are then re-cemented and brought into contact. This technique is known as 'pre-cementing'.
FUSELAGE: Select the eight hardest pieces of 1/8 square for the longerons. Rub the plan with soap or wax polish at points where joints will occur and build one fuselage side directly over the plan. Pin the sheet parts in place first and then add the longerons and the vertical spacers. Build the second side directly over the first to ensure that they are both alike (see sketch). Allow to set.
Whilst the sides are drying, build formers 1 and 2, fitting in pieces 'X' as shown in the sketch on the plan. Remove the fuselage sides from the plan when set, lightly sandpaper and carefully separate with a modelling knife. Join the two fuselage sides with formers 1 and 2 as shown on the plan. Join the rear ends of the fuselage, inserting pieces F9 and then cement the two F8 pieces to the LEFT fuselage side. When set, join to the right fuselage side so that the RIGHT frame projects 116" forward of the fronts of the F8 pieces (trim off the surplus when dry). This will provide the necessary sidethrust. Now add pieces 'Z' and the remainder of the cross braces.
Rake the undercarriage legs forward as shown in the side view of the fuselage, then bind the u/c to the appropriate spacers and cement well. Cement formers SI-55 in position, followed by the dashboard. Add the seven 1/16 square stringers, filling in the spaces at the extreme nose with scrap balsa. Cover the space between S5 and the dashboard with cartridge paper.
Carefully cement the windshield in place and make holes for the front wing dowel. Add the rear dowel and the tail dowel. The rubber anchorage (F4) is reinforced with F5. Cut out the ply nose former (save the inner piece) and cement to the nose. The trapdoor is hinged on its front edge with silk and kept closed with a pin pushed through one of the longerons. Note the various pieces of strip and sheet which are inserted at the tail end to provide a mounting surface for the underfin. Build the underfin flat on the plan. Round off the edges and cement to the underside of the fuselage.
NOSEBLOCK: Attach the nose block to the ply nose former by two small dabs of cement. Carve to the approximate side and top profiles, then finish off with a piece of sandpaper so that the nose block merges smoothly with the 'fuselage nose. Cut away from the fuselage and cement 'N' and 'NI' to the back of the block. Drill a 1/16 hole in the noseblock and screw in the brass bush at right angles to the rear face (Side and Down thrust have already been built into the fuselage).
Begin the shaft at the hook end. When this has been formed, thread on the noseblock - followed by the washers (or ball race) and finally the airscrew. Next, snip off the surplus wire and bend the winding loop. Drill a hole in one blade of the airscrew to take the brass tube for the freewheel clutch. Bend the clutch wire over at the end, thread through the airscrew from the back and bend over at right angles to form the free wheel.
AIRSCREW (Sawcut): Many people find difficulty in making airscrews, so a partially finished 17 inch sawcut type is provided in this kit - with most of the work already done. These airscrews are very efficient if correctly finished - study the sketch for details.
Cut away the surplus from the back of the hub and shape the blades to the curved outline shown. File, cut or sand the backs of the blades flat. Then turn over and shape the fronts to an aerofoil section. Finish off with fine sandpaper and test for correct balance in the usual way. Cover with tissue and give two coats of dope.
AIRSCREW (Carved): For maximum performance, obtain a block of balsa to the sizes given on the plan, mark out as shown, drill the centre hole first and then carefully cut to the marked shapes and carve to section, again carving the backs of the blades first and then working on the fronts. Pay attention to the balance of the prop and concentrate on getting both blades exactly alike.
WING: Start by cutting out all the wing ribs and the dihedral braces. Pin the 1/8 square lower spar on the LEFT HAND wing panel. Cut notches for the wing ribs in the trailing edge and pin the TE in position. Add dihedral brace D2, cement the ribs to the spar and TE - using pins to hold them upright. Tilt the centre rib, using the angle template provided. Ascertain that the front of each rib lines up with the plan, then cement the 1/4 x 3/16 leading edge to them (use pins to hold in place). Now add the upper spar (3/16 x 1/8), followed by the tips. The tips should only be shaped in the top view at this stage..."
Supplementary file notes
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by Bill Dean
from Keil Kraft
Rubber F/F Kit
all formers complete :)
Found online 01/07/2011 at:
Format: • PDFbitmap
Credit*: aeromeddeler, AdrianCulf
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User commentsHi Steve/Mary. The bare bones of Keil Kraft's Gypsy [more pics 004-005].
AndyCoutts - 08/10/2016
Added a picture of Andy Coutts' Gypsy in flight [more pics 006].
Mary - 10/11/2016
Two more great pictures of Andy Coutts' Gypsy, courtesy of his talented wife, Lindsay [more pics 007-008].
Mary - 28/11/2016
Dear Steve and Mary, here's my hull under construction: a small electric motor in place of the rubber engine [more pics 009, 010]. I hope to build as light as possible.
JulienVermeire - 24/01/2018
Here is my GYPSY, structural work done [more pics 011,012]. Now the remote control installation and finally cover with Japanese paper. The rubber band model weighs 8 OZS or 230 grams. I'm going to try to obtain this weight with RC. Of course, it will be impossible to get 8 OZS or 230 GRAMS, but 300 grams or 10 OZS should be able. It is very fun with so little wood to build a model that is also still RC flying. And it takes very little money.
JulienVermeire_Belgie - 05/02/2018
Hi Steve and Mary: first flight made today, very good airplane the Gypsy by KeiKraft [more pics 013, 014]. Will be even better if it's summer, now it's cold.
JulienVermeire_Belgie - 12/02/2018
Please find attached a few photos of my Gipsy, built from the Keil Kraft kit recently relaunched by RIPMAX [more pics 015-019]. It is a very nice kit, the wood choice in mine being quite good and the laser cutting helping building no end. I converted it to electric power and radio control, as I wanted a park-flyer without the 'downwind chase' hassle and did not fancy piling-up turns on a rubber motor. The model was covered in Solarfilm's Litespan for its strength and puncture resistance. It flies great on a 'bell-type' outrunner motor that, with a GWS 8"X4.3" propeller cut down to 7" diameter draws 5.3A from a 2S 500mAh battery. The review was published in the RCM&E Feb 2019 issue should any of the 'Outerzone' fans wish to know more details about the conversion.
ArnaldoCorreia - 16/02/2019
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