Seagull (oz13575)
About this Plan
Seagull. Towline glider model. Tailless layout.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Quote: "I bought an old collection of magazines. This had a copy of Model Airplane News 1956 December issue. In this is the Ted Strader Snoopy (oz485). Also, there is a plan to Ray Booth's Seagull which I have attached. Unfortunately, a previous owner has seen fit to remove the full article, less attached drawing. I'd be keen to see the article but am interested to return something to a great website. I hope this helps to add to a great database. Yours, from Christchurch, New Zealand,"
Update 21/1/2022: Added article, thanks to Pit.
Quote: "Construction' of a tail-less model usually involves the builder in a rather complicated wing structure, since most tail-less designs call for washout, that is reduced wing incidence at the tips, to be built in during assembly or, alternatively, steamed to the appropriate 'twist' after covering and doping. The author feels, therefore, that a large number of young modelers will not attempt construction of a tail-less model for this reason.
The Seagull has been designed to eliminate these complications, both wing halves being constructed perfectly flat on the building board, with no washout or twist being required whatsoever. The model has been thoroughly tested over quite a long period and a second test machine was built by an inexperienced modeler - only his third ship - with excellent results.
Simplicity and low building costs are the keynotes of this design, which will give the younger modelers a chance to explore the possibilities and characteristics of the tail-less layout.
Fuselage: Cut two identical side panels from 1/16 sheet to the shape shown on the drawing, then mark the former positions on the side panels. Cement formers 4, 5 and 6 to one of the side panels, making sure they are square to the panel in plan view. Allow these to dry before adding opposite side panel, which must be in line with the first side. Carefully placing a few elastic bands around the fuselage will help hold the sides in position and will enable formers 1, 2 and 3 to be fitted by pulling the fuselage sides in a little at the front.
When completely set, cover the top and bottom of the fuselage with 1/32 sheet with the grain running across the body, as indicated on the plan. Cement a cube of hard balsa of the appropriate size to the nose of the model. Do not carve and sand the nose to shape until the cement is hard. The three pieces of 1/8 hardwood dowel may be fitted into position. These dowels are for the attachment of the rubber bands retaining the wing in position on the fuselage.
From .040 dia wire bend two hooks to the shape given and cement in their respective places on the underside of the fuselage. These tow hooks should be given at least two coats of cement. Lightly sand the body all over, cover with tissue, water shrink and clear dope in the normal manner. A small hole in the top skin of the body forms access to the weight box between formers 1 and 2..."
Supplementary file notes
Article.
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(oz13575)
Seagull
by Ray Booth
from Model Airplane News
December 1956
36in span
Glider F/F
clean :)
all formers complete :)
got article :) -
Submitted: 10/01/2022
Filesize: 525KB
Format: • PDFbitmap
Credit*: PhilFowler
Downloads: 731
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- Seagull (oz13575)
- Plan File Filesize: 525KB Filename: Seagull_oz13575.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 1344KB Filename: Seagull_oz13575_article.pdf
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Notes
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
Scaling
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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