Payloader (oz13501)

About this Plan

Payloader (Mighty Midgets Series). Rubber sport/PAA model.

Note the Payloader (oz2614) was also published in Air Trails January 1952. This here is the Payloader plan as it appeared in the Berkeley kit.

From the late Larry Kruse collection.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "Hello again from OKLAHOMA! I have the mixed blessing of inventorying the late Larry Kruse's free flight collection and supplies. Most of the kits and original drawings will go to the US AMA museum. But... those that you don't have on file I'll be prepping for you and the Outerzone. So here is the first find that you don't already have, a Berkeley Payloader. Thanks for all your hard work. Tom Solinski"

Planfile includes full build instructions.

Quote: "This model is simple in structure and design, and should offer no difficulties in construction, even to the beginner. Before beginning the construction of the airplane, look over the plans and pictures carefully to obtain a general idea of the construction. If any difficulties appear, try to construct the model as far as possible. Most of the construction will become simple as work progresses. In all cases, take your time, making sure that all parts are correctly cut and aligned.

Select a flat board, table top, or workbench for layout work. It is best to have a model knife, pliers, and sandpaper handy.

Fuselage: Study the step by step Assembly Details for the fuselage. They fully explain the construction method.

Tail Surfaces: The tail surfaces (Rudder and Stabilizer) are made from flat die cut sheet balsa. Note that small extra pieces are used at the tips with the grain running in the opposite direction. This will prevent the balsa from warping. After cementing the tips to the tall surfaces, sand smooth, rounding the leading edge and tapering the trailing edge.

WING: The wings are built directly on the drawings and the construction is self-explanatory. Cover the plan with wax paper so that the model cement will not stick to the plan. Use pins to hold the wing ribs in place. Cement the trailing edge to the ribs and add the center spar. Add the leading edge last. Insert the short false ribs. Note that pins are not stuck through the wood Itself but are used on either side of the parts to hold them in position.

It should be further noted that the left and right, panels are made separately. If the panels are to be joined together it is done last, making sure that the proper dihedral is used.

The wing tips are added after the panel is removed from the plans. Be sure to sand a taper on the trailing edge and to round off the leading edge.

Propellor: A plastic propeller is included with the kit. The propeller and nose block are made removable from the fuselage to permit the rubber to be stretched while winding. Cement one washer on the nose block, then pierce the nose block with the prop shaft from the front side. Remove the shaft and insert it through the rear of the block. Slip the extra washer over the shaft. Install the prop and bend a 'U' in the shaft. Cement the shaft to the prop. Center the spinner over prop and spot glue in place..."

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