About this Plan
Splinter. Rubber sport model. Rolled-balsa tube fuselage.
Quote: "Don't let looks deceive you this rubber-powered sport ship is a tiptop performer. Full-size plans make it a cinch to build. The Splinter, by Don McGovern.
This rubber-powered fugitive from a flit can was nicknamed 'The Splinter', for reasons only too obvious. Resembling a one-wheeled droop-tailed flying sewer pipe, it is just what you need in order to have a lot of fun.
If you're lazy, that's no excuse for not going ahead. We have provided you with full-size plans, a Bill Of Materials, and you don't even have to carve a prop. Therefore, if you will grab your rusty-trusty razor, join the plans at x-x, and uncork the goo, we will begin.
Wing & Stabilizer: Construction of the wing and stabilizer should be tackled first, as there isn't much work to do on either. First of all, cut out all the ribs carefully and accurately. Sixteen W1 ribs will be needed, and two each of the rest. If you wish, the patterns may be pasted directly on the wood itself. Then, after you've cut out the first one, additional ribs may be cut, using the original as a template.
Note how the trailing edges, on the stabilizer as well as the wing, are notched to receive the rib. This practice permits three times the cementing surface than with an ordinary butt-joint - double the surface in the case of the diamond-positioned leading edge. While not absolutely necessary in a model of this size, such practices are very important on ships of larger dimensions.
After cutting the trailing edges to the proper length, do the same for the leading edges and spars. In the wing tip sections, the 1/16 x 3/16 spar tapers to 1/8 in, as shown on the rib pattern. Check each strip of wood for relative straightness - a warp-free model is an easy one to adjust.
Even if this is one of your first models, you will find it a cinch to assemble the flying surfaces. Pin the trailing edge and spar in place on the plan, then douse the spar notch and butt ends of the ribs with cement, fit and align in position. Next the leading edge sections are added, and the units are left to dry thoroughly, for an hour or so..."
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