Buccaneer 48 (oz13417)
About this Plan
Berkeley Buccaneer 48. Free flight power model.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Quote: "Dear Steve and Mary, Found a Berkeley 'Buccaneer 48' kit advert on RCGroups. Usually, when I see something like this, I'll check your site to see what the kit looks like. Sometimes, there is no drawing for the kit in question, as is the case here. I bought the kit, scanned it and here you are. Looks like all the parts are there on the plans, so I didn't scan any of the printwood. If you want, I can do so and send that along. Let me know if the DPI settings are OK or not.
According to the SAM site, this airplane was published or the kit was released in 1938, which, if I understand, makes it in the 'Antique' category for contest flying. The wood is in excellent condition, and started. Many parts are already cut out - and broken, then reglued - so I'll be building the actual kit. I'll send some pictures when it's done. Thank you again, for your site and the work it takes to keep it running,"
Planfile includes full build instructions.
Quote: "The BUCCANEER-48 is the 4 ft wingspan version of the famous Buccaneer series-of gas models. The model is simple in structure and design and anyone who had. a little experience in building tubber powered models will have absolutely no difficulty in constructing this plane. The plans show the installation of the Ohlsson 23 motor and instructions are included for installing other types. The plane should not weigh more than 24 oz complete. The model has been carefully designed and we do not recommend any structural change.
Before beginning the construction of the ship, look over the plans and pictures to obtain ageneral idea of the construction. If any difficulties appear, try to construct the model as far as possible. Most of the construction will become clear as your work progresses. In all cases, take your time, making sure that all parts are accurately cut and aligned.
Before beginning the construction of the ship, select a flat board about three feet long and 6 to 10 inches wide for layout work. A table top or work bench will serve the same purpose. It is best to have all your tools close at hand. You will need a small hand coping saw, tack hammer, hand-drill, file, soldering iron, knife, razor blade and sandpaper.
THE FUSELAGE: The 'CRUTCH' of the fuselage is constructed first. The top view of the fuselage is used to lay this out. Use 3/16 x 3/8 balsa throughout. Select the two straightest and most even pieces for the main members, trying to have them balanced in weight,as closely as possible. Use nails or pins to hold these members in position on the drawing, but do not stick the nails or pins through the wood itself. Insert the 3/16 x 3/8 cross members, working your way from the rear of the fuselage forward up to Station No. 2. Next cut out and cement bulkhead No. 2 in position with the landing gear bent and attached to the bulkhead. The landing'gear is held in position by cementing grooved basswood blocks to the plywood bulkhead. Cement firmly, applying several coats of cement.
MOTOR MOUNT: The nuts for the engine bolts are. soldered to a brass plate which is screwed to the bottom of the motor mount. For various engines, it may be necessary, to change, the distance between the motor mounts and also the holes for the engine bolts. It is impossible to show the installation of every type of small motor but the builder should experience no difficulty in making small alterations.
FUSELAGE (Continued): After the motor mount has been attached to the fuselage, cut out the bulkheads and cement in place. Do not notch bulkheads until you are ready to attach the stringers. 3/32 x 3/16 balsa stringers are used on the top bulkheads. Cut each notch for the stringer as it is laid in place. In this way the stringers will fall in their natural position, preventing unnecessary stresses. However, follow the notches as drawn on the printed wood as closely as possible.
The tail post at the rear of the fuselage is 3/16 x 3/8 balsa. Form the tail skid from 1/16 diameter wire and bind it to the tailpost with silk thread.
The fuselage is covered with strips of 1/20 sheet balsa back to Station No.4. This will make the nose of the ship rigid and will prevent holes in the covering when handling. The strips should be fitted together, as closely as possible, trying to avoid crimps or holes in the planking as much as possible. Small cracks or open spaces in the planking will not show after the fuselage is covered with bamboo paper.
TAIL SURFACES: The tail surfaces are of simple construction, the drawings being self-explanatory. The stabilizer and rudder should be covered when completed: The tail unit is permanently cemented to the fuselage. The rudder and stabilizer settings should be exactly as shown on the plans. The rudder is not offset as is the usual procedure on larger gas models. Be sure to taper the rear of the crutch to give the stabilizer positive incidence.
WINGS: As the flying qualities of the gas model will depend greatly on the wing, care should be exercised while building it to avoid weakness and warping. The spar is made first. The center section is built as shown in detail on the drawing. Lay out the spar directly on the front view drawing, holding the strips at the proper angle by means of brads. Cut all the joints exactly as shown and insert the plywood filler. Be sure to give the center section a coat of cement to insure strength.
Cut out all the wing ribs. Slide each rib in place on the spar, setting the rib at the proper angle as shown in the front view. A simple way to do this is to cut acardboard template with an angle equal to the dihedral angle of the wing. When the spars are laid flat on the drawing, the template will set the rib at the proper angle. The center ribs are cut in two sections because of the filler blocks.
Cement the leading and trailing edges in place. The leading edge is diamqnd shape with the front rounded off. The trailing edge is 1/8 x 1 in balsa, tapered in the rear and notched into the rib. The tapering is done with sandpaper or a small plane. The wing tip is two-ply sheet balsa and is cut in sections from the printed wood. Note carefully the formation of the spar at the tips. The center section of the wing is covered with sheet balsa. This sheet partly covers the leading edge, but do not attempt to wrap it, around the edge.
COVERING AND DECORATING: The model is now complete, ready for covering. Cover side and rear windows with celluloid first. The entire model is covered with bamboo paper which is attached to the framework with cement. The side windows of the cabin are given a rounded corner effect with small rounded piece of bamboo paper. The fuselage must be covered with small pieces working from the rear towards the front. The solid balsa blocks are not covered with paper. Sand them smooth and give them a coat of cement. Each side of the rudder and stabilizer is covered with a separate sheet.
When Covering the wing and tail surfaces, allow a border of about one inch. Slit this border at regular intervals and fold over, cementing them well to the framework. In all cases, no jagged edges should appear in the covering. All edges should be well cemented after the ship is covered.
The wing is covered in three sections, with the top and bottom covered separately. The three sections are: the center section: the wing panel: and the wing tip. Be sure that the covering is well cemented to the concave bottom part of the wing, or else the airfoil will lose its proper shape.
After the covering is completed the bamboo paper is moistened with water by a spray, or with a brush, and ,allowed to shrink for several hours. Care should be taken to avoid wing and tail surfaces from warping.
The plane should be doped before running the motor in the ship. Use the dope which we sell,and include with the kit. Do not give the model more than two coats and do not paint the model until the water for shrinking has completely dried.
The front windshield is cemented in place after the doping has been completed. The transfer insignia may be placed on the fuselage side or on the rudder. Dip the insignia sheet in apan of water for about 30 seconds. Lift the sheet out of the water and, laying the wet sheet face up on the model, slide the insignia from the sheet on to the plane.
PROPELLER: The propeller design whibh we recommend is our standard design propeller. For the Ohlsson 23 engine we recommend a 12 in diameter propeller with an 8 inch pitch. For other motors, we advise that you use the propeller recommended by the manufacturer. If this does not give satisfactory results, experiment with different diameter propellers until you obtain the best performance.
FLYING: The first test hop should be made on a calm day, uaing enough fuel for an engine run of about thirty seconds. A mechanical timer may also be used to cut the ignition after this period of time, The wing should be attached to the fuselage with rubber bands. The bands extend over the wing and around the wire hooks.
The ship as designed with the Ohlsson 23 motor should balance exactly or be slightly nose heavy with the wing in the position shown on the drawings. However, it is better to have the ship slightly nose heavy rather than tail heavy on its first flight. When running the engine in the ship, make sure that the vibration does not shift the wing position.
The model should show no signs of steep banking under power unless the wing is warped. In this case, correct the trouble immediately. Slight banking can be eliminated by warping the rudder and by shifting the wing to one side to increase the area on the side that banks low.
If the model should be nose heavy, warp the rear of the stabilizer upwards slightly. Both the rudder and stabilizer can be easily warped by breathing on them and then bending slightly between the fingers.
The Ohlsson 23 weighs 4 ounces bare. If other motors are used, any difference in engine weight can be compensated for with lead shot.
Before every flight, check the alignment of your wing. Mark the correct position of the wing with a soft pencil.
NOTICE: BERKELEY MODEL SUPPLIES will be glad to help you with any difficulty constructing this model and would appreciate reports of exceptional flights or contest records."
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User commentsI bought a short kit from Klarich in the early 90's and built it while living in the barracks in California. I powered it with an Ohlsson .23 in order to fly it in several event at the SAM champs, the .23 gave me problems so I didn't get to fly all the events I'd entered but it did fly OK. The engine was changed to an Elfin 2.49 diesel and I flew it at another champs later, still have the plane.
Douglas Babb - 05/11/2021
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