Woody Pusher (oz13301)

 

Woody Pusher (oz13301) by Chris Moes from Model Builder 1974 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Woody Pusher. Radio control sport-scale model, for .09 to .15 engines and 3 channels.

Quote: "Different, yet fun and easy to fly, was the designer's objective when creating this model. What's more, it's scale! Woody Pusher, by Chris Moes.

In their search for something a little different, full-size aircraft homebuilders have come up with some pretty nifty configurations. The Woody Pusher is a classic example of this type of thinking. Powered by a 65 hp engine, mounted on the wing center section, it 'pushes' pilot and passenger along at a comfortable 85 mph. The reason for the first half of the name is twofold. First of all, the prototype was designed by Harris L Woods (Woody), and secondly, it features a largely all-wood construction.

In looking for an R/C sport flyer, I had much the same objectives in mind as Mr Woods and his colleagues. It had to be different, yet fun and easy to build and fly. I think the Woody is a solution to the problem.

Actually, I don’t even classify this model as a stand-off scale, since it has a number of changes made to the structure and areas, and no real attempt has been made to add detail. But, just the same, the character of the full size Woody is still very much there. The model is powered by engines in the .10 to .15 range. A .19 is perhaps a little hot for this plane, but if it is all you’ve got, and it will run on an 8 inch prop, why not?

Wing: Start the wing by cutting out and assembling the center section/motor mount from 1/8 ply. Note that the 2 center section ribs are notched to accept two 1/8 ply dihedral braces which should also be added at this time. Be sure that everything is perfectly square. The tank fairing and 1/16 balsa sheeting could also be added at this stage.

Incidentally, I used Titebond glue for the entire model except for the fuselage doublers. Epoxy is wonderful stuff, but for wood joints, there is still nothing that matches aliphatic resin for strength and low weight.

Now, take out that perfectly flat building board, put the wing plan on it and cover it with old Monokote or Solarfilm plastic backing. I have yet to find any adhesive which will stick to this stuff.

Cut out and pin down the 1/16 bottom sheeting, and this includes the bottom capstrips. Pin down and glue a very hard 1/4 inch square spar. Now take that center section you’ve already built, prop it up to the appropriate dihedral angle and glue to the bottom sheeting and spar.

Now add the 10 ribs, including one which is butted right up to the ply center section. Note that the tip rib, which is 1/4 inch sheet, also serves as a wing tip. Glue and pin down all the top sheeting and cap strips and take a break (or better still, start on the fuselage).

Once the glue has dried, remove the wing from the plan and add the 1/4 x 3/8 hard balsa leading edge. Set the center section down flat and measure the dihedral of that wing (it should be 1-3/4 to 2 inches, but it’s really not that critical). The second panel is built the same as the first, but, prop the first panel up twice your measured dihedral (about 4 inches).

The wing is finished by shaping the leading edges and adding wire reinforcements to the trailing edge where the rubber bands will pass. For added strength, you may wish to add fiberglass reinforcing tape to the bottom of the dihedral breaks.

Tail: What can I say? Cut 'em out and sand smooth, but be sure to use medium light wood, since even though the tail moment is short, the engine is fairly far back, and some difficulty in balancing may arise if the tail is too heavy.

Fuselage: Fuselage sides are cut from medium 1/8 balsa. When choosing wood for fuselage sides, I always try to pick two pieces that were side by side in the log. This is easy to find out by simply comparing the grain patterns of one piece to another. Usually, they are packed close to or next to one another in the stack.

Nose doublers are added (use contact cement for a quick job) and all longerons and uprights are glued in place. Be sure to make one left and one right side! Making two identical fuselage sides doesn’t exactly do much for the ego.

The fuselage is first framed up using Formers C and E, and the 1/8 ply landing gear mount, keeping things square. Former A is then added and at the same time, the nose is pulled together. Masking tape is excellent for this job. Pull the tail together, using pins and clothes pegs, and checking for proper alignment.

Now add the other formers, cross pieces (dimensions from top view), and tailwheel block. Sheet top and bottom with 3/32 sheet crossgrain..."

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Woody Pusher (oz13301) by Chris Moes from Model Builder 1974 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz13301)
    Woody Pusher
    by Chris Moes
    from Model Builder (ref:8741)
    August 1974 
    46in span
    Scale IC R/C Parasol Pusher Civil
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 31/08/2021
    Filesize: 547KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: Pilgrim

ScaleType:
  • Aerosport_Woody_Pusher | help
    see Wikipedia | search Outerzone


    ScaleType: This (oz13301) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.

    If we got this right, you now have a couple of direct links (above) to 1. see the Wikipedia page, and 2. search Oz for more plans of this type. If we didn't, then see below.


    Notes:
    ScaleType is formed from the last part of the Wikipedia page address, which here is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerosport_Woody_Pusher
    Wikipedia page addresses may well change over time.
    For more obscure types, there currently will be no Wiki page found. We tag these cases as ScaleType = NotFound. These will change over time.
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* Credit field

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Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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