Wet r Dry (oz13293)
About this Plan
Wet r Dry. Radio control sport seaplane model, for .35 engine.
Quote: "The Ol' Man comes up with a neat scale-like amphibian, utilizing his unique Eee-Z-Fli construction. Wet 'r Dry, by Al Wheeler.
An amphibian may not be the most desired project for desert dwellers, but for those with access to patches of wet stuff, water flying can be a lot of fun. The Wet 'r Dry is an all-around fun airplane and one that is surprisingly agile for a non-aerobatic type. Both ground and water handling are good, with more than adequate rudder control in both configurations.
The OS .35 FP has adequate power with enough left over for a roll or loop now and then. The entire flight envelope is best described as docile with no departures from normal flight. The only difference from an engine-in-the-nose airplane is a tendency for the nose to come up if rapid power reductions are made; with power on, the high thrustline will pull the nose down, a characteristic that is compensated for in the rigging and is entirely within the normal trim range. Flare and landing are normal, with wheel landings three-pointed and water landings flown on in a level attitude using a touch of power. (Tail-low water landings tend to start a porpoising action.)
In keeping with the Eee-Z-Fli philosophy, Wet 'r Dry is not a difficult building project, The plans leave little to the imagination, and the materials needed are all readily available.
So, why not build something that will let you get your feet wet, learn a new landing technique and widen your choice of flying sites? Roll it or dip it with the Eee-Z-Fli Wet 'r Dry!
CONSTRUCTION: Begin by splicing the fuselage sides out of 4-inch wide sheets of 1/8-inch balsa. Install dou-blers D1, D2 and D3 as shown (be sure to make a left and right side), leaving spaces for bulkheads B1, B2 and B3. Glue bulkheads B2, B3 and B4 to one fuselage side; when dry, glue the remaining side in place, using a square to keep everything aligned. Fit B1 into the groove at the front edge of the fuselage sides, align and cement in place. Fit and install the 1/8x1/2 doublers between B3 and B4 at the top of the fuselage and down the inside of the windshield slant.
Install BA and the 1/4 square stringer between it and Bl. Skin the top with 1/16 balsa (wet it if needed). Invert the fuselage on a level surface and fit and install the forward and aft keels. Install B5, gluing it to the fuselage sides and the keel. The fuselage sides will have to be pulled in to install 85; be sure the curves are even. When the joint is dry, pull the rear edges of the sides together. Be sure the bend is the same on both sides. Don't build a banana!
Fit and install the rear fuselage filler block and the triangular strips from B4 back past B5. The fuselage bottom from 85 aft can now be sheeted with cross grain balsa. Run an extra bead of cement along the inner joint.
Install the three 3/16 balsa doublers that support the tail wheel assembly. When dry, install the tail wheel assembly and the pushrod to the rudder servo. The fuselage top may now be sheeted with 1/16 cross grain balsa.
Sheet the hull bottom from the step aft; use 1/16 medium balsa with the grain running lengthwise. Be sure to sand the keel, the chine line and 84 and 85 to the proper angle first. Follow up with an extra bead of cement on the insideof all joints.
I laminated the nose block from eight pieces of 1/2-inch soft balsa (sawn to provide a hollow interior) with 1/4-inch balsa side pieces. The block is carved and sanded to shape and then glued to the front of B1. Sand the keel, bulkheads and chine line with a block first to provide a good seat for the bottom sheeting, then sheet the bottom with the grain running lengthwise. Allow the extra width for the splash rails outboard of the chine line - an additional 3/4 inch will provide sufficient material for final trimming.."
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