Wee One (oz13248)
About this Plan
Wee One. Free flight sport model.
Quote: "THE WEE ONE is a model that can be built in the proverbial few evenings' work. The idea behind it was to have something to fly on those Sunday outings to the local free flight area. We wanted a job that would be inexpensive and simple to construct, and yet able to stand the rigors of sport flying. The half-A engine seemed ideal, not only because of its low cost, but because of the size of the resultant model and its ease of transportation.
The model was first flown at my state contest in a 20 to 30-mile wind. Its stability under these conditions amazed the author and the other modelers present. it flew well from the start, and with only a few minor adjustments turned in real contest performance. We had numerous flights of better than three minutes on 20 to 25-second motor runs. With the strong winds present there were no thermals, so those results made us happy indeed. Alter spinning our way through many stunt and speed contests these past three years, Wee One really brought back the thrill of bygone days when free flight ruled the roost.
Well, enough talk. If you're interested let's amble down to the cellar, push aside the usual junk that clutters the modeler's work bench, and get busy. Start with the fuselage.
Draw and out both sides to outline on 1/16 medium sheet balsa. Cut bulkheads A and B from 1/8 plywood, drill holes to receive engine mounting bolts in A, and bend landing gear of 1/16 wire and cement to bulkhead B. Cut all cross pieces to size.
Glue and pin fuselage sides together at tail post, then cement bulkhead B with the landing gear attached in position indicated; allow to dry thoroughly. While you're waiting this is a good time to outline your stabilizer and rudder on 1/16 hard sheet balsa. Cut both to outline and sand to a smooth surface. By this time the fuselage assembly should have dried sufficiently to permit further construction. Take the cross pieces you have cut and cement in the position shown.
The next step is to sheet the top and bottom of the fuselage. The bottom is in 1/16 and the top in 1/32 medium sheet balsa. Be certain to leave the section forward of bulkhead B uncovered to facilitate installation of the motor, firewall and fuel tank. Cement and pin in position the tail assembly; cheek to be sure that the surfaces are straight.
Draw and cut out the 35 wing ribs of 1/16 medium sheet balsa. Cut the leading edges to size from 3/16 square hard balsa, the main spar out of 1/8 x 1/4 hard balsa, and the trailing edges out of 1/4 x 3/4 medium balsa sheet. The wing is constructed in three sections - the center section and two outer panels - then cemented together and braced at the dihedral joint. Pin the main spar of both outer panels to a level board, place the ribs, leading and trailing edges in positions indicated on plans, and cement.
Now assemble the center section in the same way, making certain that the two outer ribs are angled correctly to give the proper dihedral when the wing is joined together. Make certain that the center section ribs and the inboard ribs of the two outer panels are notched to receive the two dihedral braces which are made of 1/16 hard sheet balsa.
After the wing sections have thoroughly dried, assemble the wing by cementing the inner rib of each outer panel to the center section, cement and pin in place the dihedral braces, check that the dihedral is correct and set aside to dry. The wing tips are cut from soft balsa, and trimmed to outline shape.
Start construction of the fuel tank and tank mounting bracket. Cut the tank out of .004 shim brass to the outline of the pattern. The mounting bracket is cut from .006 shim brass. Bend the tank to shape, drill holes to receive vent, tiller tube and fuel line. Solder all corners of tank, making sure there are no leaks, solder vent and filler tubes in place.
Now turn to the mounting bracket: drill 3/32 holes to receive engine anchor bolts, fill in the area marked on plans with solder, press front of fuel tank to rear of bracket, apply heat and 'sweat' together.
The motor is now installed; run the anchor bolts through bulkhead A and mounting bracket, tighten nuts and solder them to the mounting bracket. The complete engine unit may now be installed in the fuselage. Be careful that the thrust settings are zero all around. Cement thoroughly and pin in position. Insert fuel line into tank, using cement to hold in place. Now give the entire compartment between bulkheads one or two coats of any standard hot fuel proofer; clear Aero Gloss was used on the original.
You may now finish sheeting the fuselage top and bottom. sand the entire fuselage assembly to smooth out the rough spots. and then finish with a fine paper such as 0/5 or 0/7. Drill 2/32 holes in positions shown to receive dowels and cement these in place as indicated. Small washers are soldered to the landing gear to hold the 7/8 rubber wheels in place.
Going back to the wing, the tips should be cemented in place, carved to airfoil shape and sanded to a smooth finish. The entire wing is then given a sanding with fine paper to prepare for covering.
The original model wing was covered with yellow tissue iany suitable material may be substituted) and was finished in Arra Gloss. The wing received three coats of clear, the fuselage and tail assembly two coats of clear and two coats of cream, then trimmed with dark green.
The OK Cub motor used in this model has power to spare 'tor sport flying, and for contests when combined with the right prop and fuel gives startling performance. Powermist Hi Thrust fuel and a 6 by 4 propeller seemed ideal. The model climbs very steeply in a tight right turn and glides in wide right circles. The only adjustments necessary were taken care of with the rudder tab alone. The fuel tank described in the plans gives you a 20 to 25 second engine rim, which is ample on most days and too much on some."
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