Taylorcraft (oz13082)

About this Plan

Taylorcraft. Rubber scale model.

Quote: "Instructions: The T-Craft has been designed as an easily-built lite model that can be flown indoors or outdoors. If you build carefully and follow these instructions, you will have an excellent flying model.

For cutting wood to shape, use a sharp, pointed blade, such as an X-acto #11. Do not pin through wood strips, but around them. You may have to wet the 1/16 strips where sharp curves are necessary. Use stronger strips for longerons on body and lite ones for cross members, uprights on body and all parts of stab and rudder.

Cut wing ribs and use 3/32 sq on edge for leading edge and the 1/16 x 1/8 for trailing edge. Wing is built flat on plans. Tiny gussets in wing and at body bottom, marked with a (+), are glue stations for wing struts, which are 1/16 x 1/8 sanded to streamline section. These are omitted on plan for clarity.

Build two body sides on plans leaving off F-1 and F-2, until sides are glued together using top view for cross-piece length. Then add F-1, F-2, and cowling on top front. Fit nose block in place and sand to shape, but do not glue. Slip landing gear assembly and tail wheel in bottom. Put several coats of dope on body, wing, stab and rubber framework, when they are completed, and sand carefully; then apply paper. Working with each part individually, shrink paper with fine water mist, paying careful attention to prevent warping. If warping does occur, straighten before applying one or two coats of thinned clear dope.

Although any 6 in diameter prop may be used, we've had good results with the following one. The prop is in three pieces: two removable blades and a hub. The hub consists of a piece of 3/16 sq balsa 1-1/2 in long, and has slotted ends, edge to edge at right angles. Slots are 3/8 deep. Prop shaft hole goes through the center on flat side of wood. Sand this unit round and wrap with thread at end of slot to prevent splitting. Prop blades are sanded streamline, then wet and wrapped around a 3 to 4 in diameter bottle (large pop bottle OK) at a slight angle, wrapped with newspaper, and baked in oven at low temperature until dry. The angle on which blade is placed on bottle determines prop pitch - more angle, less pitch. Blades are not glued in hub and several sets of blades can be made at different angles to suit flying site.

Fly model in right circle by gluing nose button on angle to achieve right thrust and down thrust. Add more down thrust to correct tendency to stall at beginning of flight. Nose block should be removable for winding, and final thrust setting can be made by gluing shims to back of removable noseblock. If model spiral dives in right turn, twist leading edge of right wing up (wash-in)."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

CO2 conversion.
Printwood.

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