Sperry Curtiss Monoplane (oz13054)
About this Plan
Sperry Curtiss Monoplane. Peanut scale rubber model.
Quote: "If it's got two wings it's got to be good. The engineers at Sperry apparently didn't believe that credo when they came up with this monoplane conversion of the famous JN-4. The
What do you get when you forget to put the second wing on a WWI biplane you got surplus for a song? You get this trim monoplane from 1923, which has great lines for a scale subject. It really is a 'Plain Jane' in unbleached linen and with no jazzy decoration, but it more than makes up for it in flying fun. We thank Doc Mar-tin of MIAMA for the inspiration - this model is a bit sturdier (and simpler if you use the flat-bottom rib section) than his very light Hangar Pilot version.
If you're unfamiliar with stick-and-tissue construction, try a Peck-Polymers ROG, Sky Bunny or simple Peck Peanut kit like the Nesmith Cougar before you try to scratchbuild the Sperry/Curtiss Jenny. The Peck kits are available in most good hobby shops or by mail order - see their ad in this issue of MB.
If you're ready to build this historic flier, start by making two 11 x 17-inch copies of the full-size centerfold plan (press it tight to the glass) at your local copy shop. Tape one to your building board, cover it with waxed paper or plastic food wrap to prevent glue bonding to the paper. Use the other copy for patterns, tracing decorations, etc. Be sure to read all of the callouts on the plans and assemble all of the required tools, balsa (use 6-pound stock for indoor, 10-pound for outdoor), tissue, glue and paints (if you choose to airbrush rather than just use colored tissue). Do not dope this model - it will warp like a pretzel! Use rubbing alcohol to shrink the tissue, or pre-shrink the tissue on a frame before covering the model.
A basic workshop tool inventory would include an X-Acto knife with a #11 blade or broken double-edge blade (be careful!), dressmaker's pins - preferably with bead heads, self-healing cutting board (a scrap of dark artist's mat board will do), glue applicator, fine-point artist's sable brush, and needle nose pliers.
The uncovered framework photo shows the major framework assembled and the plans are fully annotated, so there's no need for step-by-step assembly instructions here.
It's best to add details like ID numbers before covering but after any airbrushing of the tissue. Cover the model using thinned white glue. Remember, no dope anywhere on the model! A #8 and #5 Micron Pigma India ink technical pen make a great pair for lettering and control surface outlines, etc. It's non-smear and permanent.
We have found that trimming high-wing monoplanes like this one is easier if you build in some down and right thrust, adjusting for a loose right-hand circle in the climb. Outdoors the glide. is a minor part of the flight; indoors the prop should turn in cruise until touchdown. The balance point should be as shown on the side view.
Add solder under the nose to adjust the balance - we prefer this to greasy clay, though the latter is traditional. Be sure you have the correct amount of wing wash-out at the tips. A bit of wash-in (trailing edge low) in the right wing or a paper trim tab bent down can keep the right wing up in a turn.
If you want to have a fantasy as a Twenties barnstormer, here's your chance. Rev up that old engine, take off from the grass field and fly into the blue on your one-wing Jenny. You can be Waldo Pepper or whoever you fancy!"
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