AS 25 2600 (oz13040)

 

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User comments

Laurent. Super thanks for sharing so my enlarged AS14 CAD Design is not alone here ;-). You build a beautifull plane also one of my favorites. Cheers,
Matzito - 16/05/2021
I concur. Looking at the drawings I see sensible and meticulous design, surely a large number of hours to design the immense variety of components. Looking at the photos what I see is the painstaking assembly of those complex and individually fragile components into a very elegant ensemble. Each engineered part was machined into a sculpture; of course there is much to thank CNC for all this, but the thought behind the machine is what really counts :-)
The only negative thing I can say is that the designer decided to forget the original outboard leading edge slats which would be another challenge. This is a chicken-like thing to do, but really I don't know if they would be of any benefit :-))
Miguel - 19/05/2021
Thank you Matitzo and Miguel for your feedback. The parts were not cut at the CNC, but indeed by hand. For the RC version, I did not make the leading edge slats because I think they are useless.
Matitzo, your AS14 is really great too.
Laurent - 19/05/2021
No CNC, all by hand? I appreciate your skills already, now this piece of information propels my admiration even higher! May your blades never become blunt :-)
Miguel - 28/05/2021
Do you have any CAD files for the movable rudder?
Maciej - 12/06/2021
Just a quick question , a lot of the former's are specified as CTP is that light ply or regular Birch plywood?
Henry - 12/06/2021
Henry, CTP is closer to Baltic Birch. I have some 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" Baltic and the outer layers are wood with the inner some sort of wood product, possibly sawdust and glue. The stuff is heavy, the 1/2" is seven layers with two of the inner ones seemingly wood, and the 1/8" and 1/4" are three layers.
Bill - 13/06/2021
CTP is simply the abbreviation for the french "contreplaqué" meaning plywood. It does not say what plywood...
Lorenz Mueller - 15/11/2021
Any info on how the fuselage was stained? I'd like to duplicate that.
Lewis Lingwood - 17/06/2022
Lewis, I have made a 'tea' from a teabag in the thinner then mixed that into the dope. Should work with anything similar to get the older antique look. Also have a can of 10 year old nitrate dope that has oxidized to a light tan color so I get the same effect regardless.
See (oz1429) photos 03 and 04 for my Roaring 20s done this way.
Bill - 18/06/2022
Thanks Bill. A good idea. I was thinking of shaping a foam plug for each panel section then covered with a thin veneer. I also thought of printing wood grain to tissue and applying to the plug. Your idea is a lot easier.
Lewis Lingwood - 29/06/2022
Hi Bill, I do have a problem (might be me) on how the wings are attached together, can you elaborate a little?
Thierry
thierry mathieu - 09/01/2023
Hi Thierry. I suspect the wings mount via rods, either aluminum or piano wire, imbedded in the fuselage to set the correct dihedral angle. The wings slide onto these. There would be metal tubing mounted in the root ribs to hold these.
Plan for the Olympic II, oz5116, shows this using 1/4"od brass hobbyshop tubing with rods a firm fit. I built an Olympic many years ago and this system works but I have not built this AS 25.
The less common alternative is to reverse this, with the rods in the wings that plug into the fuselage. Many if not most large sailplanes use one or the other of these systems.
Bill - 10/01/2023
Bill, thanks for your reply, I am almost done with the fuse, 2 half wings done, now, the drawing doesn't show the rudder, is there a reason for that? also what is the dihedral angle?
Thanks.
Thierry
ps: can't wait to have it in the air.
thierry mathieu - 28/01/2023
Thierry, good questions.
The dihedral is set by the former structure in the fuselage the wings slide onto (upper left corner of sheet 1). That has to be built very accurately as does the corresponding wing.
The rudder is shown but not with specified components, allowing you options on how to build. I would, if building, laminate the rudder trailing edge and use sheet stock matching the fin's for the leading edge and 'ribs', then sand to the tapered shape. The diagonal bracing shown in the photos is a good idea.
You could also use sheet stock cut to shape and noting the grain direction, similar to the stabilizer construction.
Photos, both before and after covering, are always appreciated.
Bill - 28/01/2023
Hello, colleagues! I couldn't find any information about alignment for this model. Which center of gravity point do you think is better? Max.
Max - 15/08/2024
Max, see the cited original plan AS 25 (oz13031). there is your answer.
pit - 15/08/2024
Pit, thanks for the reply. I am interested because I started designing this airplane in 3D for CNC cutting in the future. I studied two drawings, the original, and the Laurent drawing. There are some differences in them. For example, different wing profiles are used. I see information about 37? center of gravity for the original airplane. But Laurent has a different profile (the name of which Laurent does not indicate), and I decided to ask if there could be a difference in the center of gravity. Also, there is a question about the angle of degradation of the wing and stabilizer. I made approximate constructions in cad. Approximate, because the fuselage construction axis is missing from the drawing, and I do not know the name of the profile. I took the position of the axis from the original plan, and constructed the wing profile axis from the leading to the trailing edge. I got a degradation angle value of 1 ° 56 '( stabilizer 0 °, wing + 1 ° 56 '). The original drawing indicates a degradation angle value of 3 °, and I am looking for a solution whether I need to change the angle of attack of the wing. Maybe this problem can be solved by using a full-turn stabilizer. In any case, i am looking for help from experienced people, or information about expluatation of the model created by Laurent's drawings. Max.
Max - 19/08/2024
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