General Western Meteor (oz13034)

About this Plan

General Western Meteor. Radio control scale parasol model for electric power. 15g brushless 1300kv motor shown.

There is a good (prototype) build thread on RCGroups by Patzpaint dated 2016, see https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2572652-Peter-Rake-G-W-Meteor-Prototype

Quote: "Full size free plan feature: General Western Meteor. A 30 in span scale model designed by Peter Rake, with the prototype model build and flown by Pat O'Donnell.

As you can see from the date on the plan this is another of those designs of mine that has been hanging about for some time. Models were built from the design, but suitable photos were always sadly lacking. Fortunately, Pat O'Donnell came to the rescue and the result is the model you see presented here.

THE MODEL: The model was drawn up during my phase of designing types suited to the GWS IPS style power units, but the plan actually shows a small outrunner motor instead of the not always reliable brushed unit. If you wanted to revert to that power arrangement, it shouldn't be too difficult to sort out the modification.

Similarly, the plan shows closed loop controls on the plan but a quick look at the photos reveals that Pat opted to use lightweight pushrods on his model. Either method works well but the closed loop system is the more accurate in scale terms.

The plan also shows scale rib spacing, which results in a rather high rib count. That's not a problem if you use the laser cut parts the publisher will make available, but for anyone choosing to hand cuffing parts, the rib count could easily be reduced by omitting every other rib. Once again, less accurate, but it would reduce both workload and the overall weight of the model.

Among other options that might be considered, the sheet tail surfaces could easily be replaced with built-up structures using laminated outlines. The model is intended to be flown three channel (rudder, elevator, motor), but since the aileron positions are indicated on the plan, the more enterprising amongst you may decide to make it a four channel model. You would, however, have to reduce the dihedral, which would mean replacing the spars shown.

EQUIPMENT: The motor shown (a 15 gram outrunner) will provide ample power when coupled with a 2S LiPo pack. Any similar small motor will be fine, but avoid using anything with much more power.

The plan shows 5 gram servos, but the more modern 3.7 gram servos would save a little weight. I'm not sure how well they'd stand up to the constant pressure of closed loops though.

The indicated hatch will provide ample access for installing the equipment and changing battery packs. Pat ended up using an 850 mAh pack, largely because he needed the nose weight. Keep the tail light, mount the equipment as far forward as practical and a smaller pack will work out fine.

You should be aiming for a flying weight of around eight ounces, although Pat's model turned out a little heavier than that at closer to ten ounces, so you do have a little leeway.

TAIL SURFACES: Let's start with the simplest part of the model. As already stated, these could be built-up structures with laminated outlines but that's something for the individual builder to decide, whether he wants to go to that additional effort. As designed, the all-sheet tail surfaces work fine for a minimal increase in weight - the weight of wood gained is offset against the weight of glue not required.

The only actual building (and I use the term loosely) involved is joining the elevators. Cut a groove into the leading edges where the joiner will fit and glue the elevators to the joiner. Use the tailplane as a guide to ensure you get the spacing correct. After that it's just a case of sanding overall and rounding off the edges. Hinging and fitting the horns is best left until after the tail surfaces are covered.

WINGS: Despite the number of ribs involved the wings are easy enough to build, although they do need to be built in a specific order. As noted on the plan, start by joining the spars with brace B. Also, glue together parts WT1 and WT2. Once dry, begin the actual construction by pinning down the spar over the centre section drawing and also pinning down part TE and the leading edge.

Now glue in place ribs R1, R2, R3 and R4, all of which should be at 90 degrees to the building board. Glue in the 1/16 ply strut plates and allow the assembly to dry completely. Unpin the centre section and lower one side of the spar over the wing drawing, pinning it in place. Pin down TE2 and the leading edge, gluing as required. Glue in place the assembled wing tip, angled upwards to meet the spar end..."

Supplementary file notes

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