Queen of Hearts (oz13016)

About this Plan

Queen of Hearts. Simple rubber sport model. All-sheet design.

Quote: "Queen of Hearts, by John Winter. A Winter project for modellers who want to make the Mrs or sweetie happy.

Here is the answer to your prayers. With this model you can interest the wife or best gal in your favorite outdoor sport, and also solve your Valentine or birthday present problem. It beats a five pound box of chocolates since it costs less and contains no calories.

Build this rugged, guaranteed-to-fly-in-the-hands-of-a-novice plane and present it to the woman in your life. If this does not cause her to become air-minded, nothing (short of holes in the head) will. Actual 'market research' has convinced us that The Queen of Hearts has definite eye appeal to the gentler sex. It can be flown ROG or handlaunched successfully by the most uninitiated, after the sketchiest instructions plus one or two demonstrations. It seems all they need to know is what direction and how many times to twist the prop and then launch into the wind. The Queen of Hearts does the rest.

As for ability to 'take it' our test model survive all manner of indignities and has emerged unscathed with the exception of a little rumpled lace. It has flown full tilt into tall trees,, small boys, buildings, camera tripods and the ground. The latter occurred when one of our female test pilots accidentally packed 250 turns into the motor backwards and launched the plane.

A few words about cement joints before we start the actual construction. Choose a good medium-drying cement. The ultra-lightning-fast-drying stuff is handy for field repairs and lightly-loaded, joints where strength is secondary, but here we need good strong joints in view of the punishment this plane will have to absorb. Pre-cement all intended joints lightly. In the case of the metal parts, clean them thoroughly with steel wool or fine sandpaper. Wipe them well with thinner followed with a light coating of cement., A thin coat will adhere to the metal best.

Pre-cement wood parts by coating both mating surfaces. While still wet, smear cement into the pores and fibers of the part with your finger. Sure, it dries to a nice glossy coating on the fingers. Chew it off like the rest of us do. It's good for the gums. The cement must penetrate to seal off the pore-suction effect and prevent the cement in the final joint from being drawn into the wood and leaving a weak fastening. This is particularly true of end grain.

When pre-cemented parts are dry, put a second coat on each surface and join. Pin, clamp, block up, etc and do not disturb till thoroughly dry. I know it looks dry in twenty minutes but the inside may take several hours to set up. Leave overnight if in doubt on thick sections where the air cannot get to much of the surface: A third coating is good insurance when it becomes a fillet at the wing attaching point or a tough skin over the rear..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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