About this Plan
Slowpoke. Free flight sport model. Cub .09 engine shown.
Quote: "Why tear out your hair trying to sport-fly contest models? When trophies are not at stake, enjoy life with this good looking cabin free flight. Features .09 power. Slowpoke, by Lloyd V Hunt.
Most sport model designs conform to the conventional layouts of the box type fuselage and typical 'light plane' cowling configurations. But in this model we have tried to present a design that is different yet rewarding to construct and fly.
Overall size of the model was determined by the engine, a Cub .099. With slight modifications our model may be powered with any class A engine such as the Arden or McCoy .099, etc. Our model has a wing area of nearly 382 sq in and a power loading of 274 oz. Incidentally, the Slowpoke could possibly be used as a radio control job.
In general the structure is quite simple, but prospective builders should be careful to pick only medium balsa throughout, with the exceptions of the fuselage formers, spars, leading and trailing edges of the wings and horizontal stabilizer, which should be hard. Fuselage construction is started by cutting the two sides to outline. The location of each former should be carefully marked on the inside of each side. Starting with the widest former which is No.6, cement the two sides and the former together, pinning them in place. The assembly should be true and square. The other formers can be then cemented in, one by one, held with pins if necessary. The basic fuselage is now completed and requires only the 1/8 in plywood firewall and the 1/8 in. plywood landing gear mount to be double cemented in place.
Before cementing the firewall to the fuselage, make provisions to install the tank. Use your own ideas on installation for this, as the required size rests on your engine and own preference. A Spitfire timer may also be used in this installation for power flights. After bending the 1/8 in diameter wire landing gear and J-bolting to the landing gear mount, cut three holes into former No.4 to facilitate secure mounting. Lastly, cement to the inside of the fuselage sides the 1/8 in sheet gussets as shown on the drawing.
The cabin structure is begun by cementing former A to the aft side of former No. 6. Then add the dowel gussets to the inside of the fuselage. Former B is located and cemented to 5 and 6. Finish by cementing in place the two 1/4 sq in strip cabin braces. Check this assembly before covering the top half of the fuselage sides. Bevel the 1/8 sheet coverings to assure better cementing of the balsa to the sides, as well as a clean seam.
A pattern for the cabin windows may help in cutting them to outline. Cement the dowel in place aft of former No.6 before covering the top and bottom of the fuselage. We covered the bottom up to former No.4, then used a hard wood insert between the gears before covering the rest of the bottom. Complete the fuselage by mounting the plywood stabilizer platform, then cut and shape the cowling aft of the firewall. Also cement in place the balsa block under former B. Trim to shape, then finish by contouring with sandpaper. Cement the dowel in this part. Finish the cabin with remaining details.
The engine and spinner are fitted only temporarily while the remaining cowling is formed. This may be cut from a balsa block and hollowed out to a 1/4 in wall, or may be formed by using 1/4 in sheet for the two bottom portions and a balsa block for the top. The cowling may be held in place by pegs or dress snaps or by any way that you wish. Drill a hole into the cowling for the needle valve and one for the fuel line to pass through.
Build the two wing panels separately, then the center section. Be sure that you use hard 1/8 in. sheet balsa for the four ribs at the center section, omitting the two ribs on the wing panels until the plywood dihedral braces have been cemented in place. Pin the trailing edge to the plan, then cement the 1/16 x 1/2 in filler strip to the trailing edge. Then locate the main spar. Cement the ribs over the spar and onto the filler strip and the trailing edge. Next cement the leading edge in place against the ribs. Place strips of scrap balsa under the leading edge to raise to the proper height. Cement the panels to the center section, then add the dihedral braces. Finish by cementing the remaining 1/8 in. ribs to the center section. Cement the 1/8 sq spars to the top of the ribs. Allow the complete structure to dry before covering the leading edge with the 1/32 sheet balsa, and then cap the ribs. Form the wing tips from two balsa blocks to contour and cement in place. Add the gussets in the center section. Cover as shown.
The leading and trailing edges of the horizontal stabilizer should be pinned down to the plan along with the bottom 1/8 sq in spar. Block up the leading and trailing edges with scrap balsa to allow for correct positioning of the ribs. After the assembly has dried, complete by covering the center section with 1/32 sheet and cement the tips in place. The trailing edge may be slotted as shown to secure the parts to the fuselage. The soft balsa block over the horizontal stabilizer may now be finished and added.
Cut the vertical stabilizer from 3/16 sheet and sand to a streamlined section. This is secured to the fuselage block and the horizontal stabilizer by using a dowel and then cementing to the top. The sub-rudder is shaped in the same manner as the horizontal stabilizer. Bend the skid and the wire hook and cement to the sub-rudder. Locate the 1/8 in dowel into the fuselage, near the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer.
With the assembly completed, sand to final form preparatory to covering to insure a good clean finish. Fuelproof the inside of the cowl and the fuselage, and even the wing. Color, dope, or finish the model by trimming to whatever design you wish. We finished ours in red.
The model should balance about 1/3 in back from the leading edge of the wing. Test glide with a gentle shove. After you are satisfied with the glide, try short power flights, using about one-third power and a short timer run for the first few flights. An ROG getaway will prove most realistic. Power flights may range from 30 or 40 seconds - that is, if they do not get enough height."
Slowpoke, MAN, October 1953.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 26/04/2021: Have changed the scaling on this plan.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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User commentsSteve, the numbers don't quite jive and the wingspan may be the culprit. I think the designer used 48" wood for the wing, plus the tips, for a span of 50". The chord works out to 7.5"-7.625" to get the 382 sq. inch area. The aspect ratio is then 6.8:1, a reasonable figurer and visually consistent with the plane's appearance.
Might also be a distant ancestor of Vic Smeed's Tumbletot (OZ3708).
Bill - 23/04/2021
Good catch. Ok, have rescaled this one now. Exactly the same plan, but have changed the resolution from 600 to 750 dpi. I think that fixes it. The 2 inch mainwheel shown now measures correctly. That makes the total wingspan 48 inches now. Thanks.
SteveWMD - 26/04/2021
Sent rescaled PDFs to Ray yesterday (25th). Don't know how this occurred, pity the article hasn't got a span size. Mine sent at 300dpi., even smaller file size.
Circlip - 26/04/2021
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