Lysander (oz12966)

About this Plan

Lysander. Rubber scale model. Wingspan 15 in.

Planfile includes full build instructions.

Quote: "GENERAL CONSTRUCTION NOTES

1. THE START: The first step in building this model is to lay the drawing out first on a work table, drawing board or plywood panel. Fasten it down with thumbtacks as illustrated and lay a sheet of wax paper over the entire plan to keep your work from adhering to it.

Now study the entire plan carefully so that you are familiar with every part of this model, and will know what we are referring to in the outlined construction procedure that follows:

FIRST STEP: begin with the side view of the fuse- lage. Make two sides (which are clearly shown on this plan). by laying down the required lengths of strip balsa, and holding them in place with pins. Then cut the cross pieces to length and fit them into position. Make two of these sides exactly alike. 'True up' each side.

2. FUSELAGE: The next operation is to assemble the two sides to form the fuselage. This time use the plan view or top view of the fuselage. On it measure the cross pieces which are clearly indi- cated and cut them to length. Set the two sides on edge on the plan and cement in place all the struts indicated by the special drawing illustrating this step. When these joints are dry, pull the sides together at front and rear as required and fit in all the remaining cross struts. Use thread or rubber bands, to keep the fuselage sides from springing apart in this operation. If the longerons make an angle at any point, such as near the nose, you may break the balsa member at the joints by firmly bending it between finger nails or by notching with your razor blade. Sometimes splice joints are specified, or else slight curves can be made by steaming. Check your fuselage for trueness.

3. FORMERS AND FAIRINGS: If this plane has a round or oval fuselage, this must be made with formers and fairing strips added to the rectangular frame- work. Cut your formers from the printed balsa sheets in the kit, cement in their proper places on the frame by checking with the plans. Then add on the necessary fairing strips called 'stringers', cementing them at the points indicated on the form- ers. Make the nose block next, according to the shape indicated on the plan. If it already is shaped, merely cement it in place.

4. REAR HOOK: It is usually installed as illustrat- ed. It is very important that you cement every- thing securely so that nothing pulls loose inside of your model.

5. TAIL ASSEMBLY: The stabilizer is usually made separately in one piece. Build it like you did the fuselage sides. Using specified strip balsa for spars and ribs, and the printed pieces for curved parts. Rudder is built in the same way. Both parts are covered on both sides before in- stalling on the model.

6. THE WINGS: On the sheet balsa trace the ribs from the plan, or use the printed pieces in the kit, and cut out the ribs carefully. Sandpaper the edges of all the ribs carefully and make sure all the notches are perfect. Usual method of building the wing is to lay your trailing edge down, holding it in place with pins. Next glue all your ribs against the trailing edge, using more pins to hold the ribs in position until your cement joints are dry. It is a simple mat- ter then, to lay your center spars and leading edges into place and touching each joint with a drop of cement. Your tip outlines and other parts may now be added.

7. ASSEMBLY: A. Cover the fuselage first, keeping the tiss- ue paper as tight and smooth as possible. Use banana oil to fasten paper to frame. YOu can ob- tain this at your regular Megow dealer. Leave a small hole in covering near the rear hook for ac- cess to your rubber band motor.

B. Cover the wing and tail parts being careful to keep paper flat and smooth without wrinkles. C. Now that all the parts have been covered, spray them with a light spray of clean water. Use an atomizer of a 'flit' sprayer. As the coverings dry they will shrink to a drum tightness. Be very careful that your frames stay true and do not warp especially your wing and tail surfaces. It may be necessary to pin these parts down to a flat surface when they are almost dry, so that they will dry true.

D. Now assemble all your parts together, as specified by these plans, making sure your wing and tail angles are correct and that the wings have the correct dihedral angle. Add all other miscellaneous details and trimmings, and your model is ready to fly.

8. TO FLY: First balance the plane. If held at the center of it's wing tips it should balance in a level position. If it does not, add weight to front or rear whichever end is lightest, until the model balances in a level position. A thumb- tack or two should do the trick. If your model needs adjustment at all.

Wind your propeller about fifty times and gently launch your plane from your hand about four feet above the ground, pointing the nose of your model a few degrees downwards. It should 'power glide' gracefully to a smooth landing. However a few more adjustments may be necessary; if your model dives, bend your elevators up slightly, after dampening with your breath. If it settles down 'tail heavy', bend elevators down slightly. After making these adjustments wind propeller about 100 times or more and your plane will fly.

Fly your model in a grass field if outdoors, or in a large hallway. Do not fly in a small room or you will risk damaging this fine model. No doubt you have greatly enjoyed building this model and are proud of your workmanship. Your comments are welcomed and if you desire to send snapshots they will be examined with our usual appreciative interest."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Note this plan file has been derived from the raw scan posted on HPA site by Swarthog, see https://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plan.... This here is the cleaned up plan, thanks to pb_guy. Which, I think by the looks of it, involved typing out and replacing all of the text. All of it.

Quote: "Thanks for keeping the site up and available."

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