About this Plan
Olympic. Rubber cabin sport model.
Planfile includes full build instructions.
Quote: "By carefully reading these instructions and studying the plan in detail, any model enthusiast will find the Olympic ever-so-easy to build. To start, lay the plan out flat on a smooth surface such as a table or drawing board. To prevent cemented parts from sticking to plan, lay a sheet of wax paper over it. Next, insert straight pins approximately 1 inch apart, around the outline of the fuselage. Construct two fuselage halves using 1/8 square balsa strips for the outline. Pin top and bottom stringers in place first, then cut vertical braces to size and cement in place. Do not pin through balsa strips, but insert pins on both sides. Cut out F-6 and cement in place. Now construct another fuselage side directly over the one you have just completed. Allow to dry at least 3 hours before removing them.
Referring to top view of fuselage, cut cross braces to size and join the two fuselage sides together. First cement cross pieces to that portion of the fuselage where the dowels are located. Allow to dry and then cement the front and rear ends together using a rubber band to hold them in place. Cut out bulkheads F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4 and F-5. Cement in place and add stringers. Bend landing gear wire to shape (refer to front view) and bind in place with thread. Give thread a coat of cement for added strength. Cut nose block to shape (referring to all three views on plan) and cement to fuselage before sanding. The propeller may be made by bending a sheet of balsa to shape, carving one from a block of balsa, or trimming a machine cut prop to shape. In any case, follow the propeller pattern shown on plan.
The tail surfaces are constructed in the same manner as the fuselage sides. Be sure that they are kept flat, as the slightest warp will effect the flying characteristics of your model. Sand leading and trailing edges to shape as shown in side view of fuselage.
Build wing by first pinning 1/8 x 1/4 inch trailing edge and 3/16 square leading edge in place on plan. Cut out all ribs and cement in place, with the exception of center ribs marked R-1. Taper 1/8 x 1/4 center spar to 1/8 inch square at tip (see front view) and cement in place. When the two wing halves are completely dry, raise each wingtip 2-1/2 inches (dihedral angle) using wooden blocks as supports, and insert the two R-1 ribs to form center section.
Cover the fuselage, wing, stabilizer and rudder with tissue before assembling these parts. When applying tissue, do not stretch it, as this will cause wrinkles. The secret is getting it on flat and evenly. It may appear baggy, but it will tighten when you spray it with water, using an atomizer or flit sprayer. Trim edges with a razor blade being careful not to cut into the balsa wood. Apply a coat of clear dope to keep tissue taut. Scrape or cut away tissue where stabilizer and rudder joins fuselage. Never cement wood to tissue. The wheels are held on by wrapping the ends of the axles with thread and applying a drop of cement. The wing is held in place on fuselage by two rubber bands stretched across the top of wing, and attached to the two 1/16 inch hardwood dowels.
Before flying your Olympic, first test glide it to attain proper balance. Next, install your rubber bands, which are held in the rear of the model by the 1/4 inch dowel. Wind up prop and launch into the wind. Small peices of paper trim tabs can be fastened to the rudder and stabilizer to control the flight path of the model. May we wish you many pleasant hours of fun flying your Olympic. Ask your dealer for the Scientific Gold Seal sister ships Spartan and Zephyr. Happy Flying. "
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Quote: "Here are the plans and print wood for a Scientific Olympic.. one classy flier! Sadly, some of it might have been 'lunch' it appears. And much of the top layer of the plans have a very dark aging. But I believe still usable. As for the ribs, the number one sheet printing was poor initially. But with close examination, the fine lines can be seen. Both R-1 are half gone, but that profile is shown on the side view. And all others, being pairs, have one fairly clean outline. I may try some cut and paste methods to approximate the real printwood outlines clearly.
There are 2 pages on the print wood pdf: #1 & 4 are 1/16, and #2 & 3 are 1/8."
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