Miles Falcon VI (oz12895)
About this Plan
Miles Falcon VI. Rubber scale model.
Quote: "THIS fine scale Model of the Miles Falcon VI is a real flyer. The actual model which the author made for experimental purposes has actually had over 100 good flights, and is still in perfect condition, which says much for its strength. Actual experiments show that it is a very fine climber, We feel sure that you will want to get on to making so we will say 'lead on McDuff.'
Most of the details necessary have been embodied in the drawings, study them carefully and you should have no difficulty in making this model. The plans are all full size and can be joined together and pinned down on board. If you do not wish to destroy your copy of the magazine, extra copies can be obtained from these offices by return of post, 6d, post free.
Fuselage: Trace on to 1/16 sheet all formers and cut out. Take a small file and cut in all slots. Take two lengths of 3/16 x 1/16 strips for top and bottom longerons, mark from plan positions of formers and cement into position. Next cement on two sides, strips 1/8 x 1/16. Having done this you can now fix on all stringers. Note that top longeron while not shown on plan between tail end formers should be put in and cut away when ready to fix tail planes. Note lower part of fuselage to centre stringer from nose block to back of cabin is filled in between stringers with 1/8 sheet balsa and afterwards sandpapered to give a smooth, even surface. Top portion to cabin covered with 1/32 balsa.
Wings: Little written instruction is necessary. Note special method of obtaining dihedral, see Fig.1. Main span and leading edge are cut to shape as shown by shaded area. Ends of each of these are cut at special angle which automatically gives dihedral when fitted to stub wing. Note 2-ply Rib No.1 which will prevent this rib from pulling inwards when dope is applied to tissue. Dowels should be cemented in, and a little cement should be put round holes in Stub wing.
Stub Wing: Fix main spar leading and trailing edges into position through Fuselage and then cement in ribs. SPECIAL: while not shown on plan, underneath should be covered with 1/32 sheet balsa, and top, between Rib 1a and 2a.
Sand Leading Edges and Trailing Edges to stream-line shape.
Tail: Assemble as per plan. Fitting: cut away top longeron; tail should notch into top stringers at 0° incidence. Cement into position.
Round off corner of wing tip a little more than shown on plan.
Rudder: As per plan.
Undercarriage: These are made as separate units and fixed to wings for flying purposes by placing a small wire hook on either side of front and back close to top, to which is attached a rubber band. Place undercarriage in position fix band from two front hooks over stub wing and fix on to back hooks. This method for flying purposes has been found very satisfactory as the undercarriage simply slides back when hitting at the wrong angle.
The whole assembly is covered with stiff cartridge paper - do not dope but use ordinary coloured paint.
For show purposes the undercarriage can either be cemented on or just pinned into position. Wheels can either be 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 in.
Cabin: Sides are cut from 1/32 sheet balsa and cellophane inserted for windows.
Propeller: 10 in hardwood medium pitch, spinner built round.
Motor: 16 Strands 1/8 flat 24 in long, fixed at rear by dowel through fuselage, see plan, and at front in usual way. See May issue, on Building for the Wakefield Trophy.
Covering: See May issue for full description on how to cover your model. Colouring is left to you, mark in lines of engine hood see photograph above and identification marks. Air Vent in nose block can be painted on. Full details of materials required on Back page of cover.
Flying: Before flying, test out for balance by holding wing tips beween fingers. Model should balance level. If it drops at tail end add small piece of led to inside of nose block by cutting a small notch, and inserting. It may need about 3/8 of an ounce.
Gently launch your model over tall grass without winding. If model glides a short distance and nose rises abruptly add more weight to nose. If model dives take a small amount away from nose. Having done this give motor about 60 turns and try out adjustment can then be made with adjustable control surfaces on tail. Gradually increase number of turns Don't forget to lubricate your rubber first. "
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Quote: "This may be a rare Vintage Plan which I put together from the original pages of Model Airplane Constructor, October 1936. My Uncle built one when the magazine was published and had it displayed in his house in the late 1950's. I never saw it flown - he told me he last flew it on the evening before WWII was declared! He gave me the original 7 pages it was on, and I scanned and drafted it into this plan. I posted the plan on the Vintage Model Company site and it drew much interest. I was advised that you might add it to your plans. My uncle was a graphic artist for the 'Daily Express' and an avid modeller about 1920 to 1950. I think it would be nice to have it available in his memory."
Supplementary file notes
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User commentsPlease note that the wing center section has been drawn turned 90 degrees counterclockwise. Got me puzzled for a moment. It´s an incredibly beautiful aeroplane, classic pre-war elegance. Cheers,
Martin - 24/03/2021
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