Lil Critter (oz12833)

About this Plan

Lil Critter. Indoor rubber model.

Quote: "Most modelers are 'afraid' of indoor ships - they should try this one and see how easy it is. L'iL Critter, by Bill Erlich and Wally Fromm.

THIS L'il Critter was originally laid out as a first project for Novice at indoor flying, and has since proven to be worth its weight in U-235.

The first model is generally a tissue-covered affair, good for 2 mins in the average-size living-room and over 4 mins at the nearest large hall. Some of these models have nudged an 80 ft ceiling in the process of the longer flights - all of them have flown well when made with a modicum of effort. If there is no large area in which to fly the Critter, we recommend making a half-size copy and flying it in the linen closet!

After picking up a bit of confidence in handling the light stuff, a follow-up model, covered with microfilm and made of more carefully selected lumber, will run up over 6-1/2 mins when swinging an 8-1/2 prop. This, of course, calls for access to the local armory or some building with a similarly high roof. If, in the process of handling, you should happen to knock off one of the propeller blades, simply balance what is left with a small blob of clay and continue flying. The times will remain close to the above stated values. There was a long and lazy session when the original was flown in this manner with great success.

Since the plan layout is full size, building is a simple matter. All members are dimensioned where need be, and the only tricky deal is that of the right wingtip being shown in phantom lines in the upper right-hand corner. Make the wing first. Cut all the spars and ribs from light and soft (5-lb stock) 1/32 sheet. The tips are formed by the last rib in the panel, in case you wondered what happened to them. (A word on making the ribs - use a bit of heavy manila paper, celluloid, or metal, and cut a template of the top curve of the rib. Cut your balsa sheet to the length of the largest rib. Make the first cut of the rib, using the template, then move the template down 1/32 in, and make another cut. You now have a rib; each successive cut results in another rib, and there are only nine needed.) The center panel of the wing is left flat on the table. Outer panels are cemented to it and each tip raised 1-1/2 in for dihedral. Use the cement sparingly.

Tail assembly is simpler yet. Using the pattern for the wing ribs, cut two more ribs, then chop enough off the trailing-edge of each to make them fit the stabilizer. Cement the ribs to the 1/32 sq stabilizer spar. A single piece of 1/32 sq acts as a rib for the rudder. Now chop the tail boom from 1/16" sheet - it's 6 in long and tapered to 1/32 x 1/16 at the end. Cement the stab spar to the rear of the boom, 1-1/2 in from the small end. Cut a piece of superfine, or Jap, tissue to the outline given and affix it to the stab frame with a few drops of thinned dope. The paper forms the outline of the stabilizer. On the bottom of the boom, opposite the stab, cement the butt end of the rudder spar. Cut its outline from superfine, or Jap, tissue and affix it as with the stab covering. Presto! a tail assembly, and you used only six slivers of wood.

The wing should be dry by now. Cover it, too, with superfine, or Jap, tissue, using one piece for each of the three sections. Now that the wing and tail are covered, absolutely refrain from attempts to tighten the paper. You'll find yourself with a balsa. framed pretzel if you try any tightening process at all.

The motor stick is cut from a sheet of light, soft 3/32 stock. Note: the stick is 8 in long, 3/16 deep at the center, and tapers to 1/8 deep at either end. Get hold of a piece of .012 dural, or something similar, and drill a tiny hole in it. Sand the burrs off the hole, then trim around the hole to make the thrust bearing..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

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