Streamliner (oz12751)

About this Plan

Streamliner. Free flight rubber sport model.

Note this is not a full size plan. This is a scan of the drawing as published in the magazine pages. Formers are shown full size, most of the layout is at half-size.

Quote: "October, 1942 The Aeromodeller. The Streamliner, by WA Dean.

The Fuselage: This member is made up in the usual way on a jig. First of all cut out all the bulkheads, replace their centres by cementing lightly, cut holesin them to take a length of 1/2 in square birch and then thread them on to it.

Cement the four 1/16 in square stringers in place, then make the undercarriage to the shape indicated on the plan, bending it to trap the two pieces of brass tithe at the top. Spread a coat of cement over the part of Former 'C' where the pieces of tube fall, wait until it is quite dry and then attach them with plenty of cement. The wheels are quite straightforward and are kept on, when completed, by a dab of solder. The spring arrangement, consisting of a piece of thread and a rubber band, is cemented in place. Wind a paper tube about 6 in. long, around a piece of 1/8 dowel, using white tissue paste as adhesive. When quite dry cut off pieces to the size required and cement to formers 'C ' and 'E'. Save the remaining tube for the wing halves.

Finally, fit 1/4 in blocks for the tail plug fixture, then the fuselage is ready for the sheet covering to be applied. This consists of eight pieces of 1/32 in sheet, roughly cut to shape and trimmed on assembly. Now cut the two 'X' ribs from 1/16 sheet and attach them to the projecting pieces of paper tube. Fill in the spaces on either side with scrap and finish off into a neat fairing with plastic balsa.

The Wing: The wing is in two separate pieces. The dowel in each half passing through the fuselage and then into tubes set in each other.

Commence by drawing both wing panels full size on to a piece of cartridge paper, then pin to a piece of stout 3-ply. Make the ribs in pairs from 1/32 sheet. To build one panel, pin the lower 1/16 square spar on to the drawing. Cement the ribs to it, and then add the upper spar.

The outer portion of the trailing edge is made from 1/16 sheet and joined to the inner piece of 1/16 by 1/8 strip. Cut 1/8 in slots in it to take the ribs, pin in place on the plan and cement to the ribs. The leading edge is a piece of 1/8 square set on edge, the end being steamed to form the curve at the tip.

The sheet covering on the leading edge is in two pieces. Use pins and elastic bands to keep it in place until the cement has set. The paper tube and dowel are attached lightly, parts being firmly fixed after other parts have been built and the correct dihedral ascertained.

The Tail Plane: The tailplane construction is similar to the wing. When completed, cut the portion of the fuselage away at 'XX' so that former 'K' still remains with the fuselage. Cut a hole as large as possible in this former to provide access to the rubber. Shape the underneath of the portion which has been cut away, to fit the Upper contour of the tailplane, then cement together. Make another top half of 'K' and inset it into the leading edge. The upper half of the fin is cemented to the tailplane and faired into it with plastic balsa. The lower half is cemented to the fuselage to form the skid.

Propeller Assembly: All details are given on the plan, so all that needs to be said is just how the freewheel operates. When under pressure the prop shaft revolves in an anti-clockwise direction, viewed from the front. This brings the bent over portion up against the upright side of the stop 'A' When the rubber is unwound the propeller still turns with the wind pressure, until the prop shaft slides up and over the inclined side of 'A.' The advantage of this type of freewheel is that nothing has to be connected up before winding. Immediately any pressure is put on the rubber the shaft connects up with the propeller.

Covering: Before applying the tissue covering, go over the enEire model with some very fine glass paper in order to remove any roughness which might spoil the finish. Cover the flying surfaces with tissue, using a white paste such as 'Grip-Ex' and then spraying with water afterwards to tighten it. Give the wings two coats of dope and then one of banana oil. The tailplane is given one coat of each. Apply three coats of banana oil to the fuselage and prop assembly, sanding in between coats.

Flying: Test fly in long grass on a few turns. If possible, try to obtain the correct trim by means of warping the flying surfaces slightly. If this proves insufficient, use a movable weight slung underneath the fuselage. The model should be trimmed to circle to the right by means of slight side thrust, this means that the model circles on power and flies straight on the glide."

From scan on Marys page at: https://rclibrary.co.uk/title_details.asp?ID=2325

Supplementary file notes

Planfile includes article.

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