Tlush Mite (oz12646)

About this Plan

Tlush Mite. Radio control sport model for electric power.

The original Tlush Mite (oz6146) first appeared in Air Trails May 1938. This here is a later 125% enlarged version, for RC and electric power.

Quote: "RC Tlush Mite, by Randy Wrisley. Here's a 125% scaled version of a SAM approved Old Timer for electric powered R/C. It was designed for the Astro 020 and 035 motors, but with a little 'beef up' is ideal for 05 power.

Francis Tlush designed the Mite back in 1938. Used as a test bed for a small motor he had built, the model proved to be a better flier than Mr Tlush expected. Shortly after it was completed, the Mite, and the engine, disappeared during a 54-minute flight!

My father Ernie turned me on to the Mite. He has built two of them for 1/2A Texaco. While not a skyrocket climber, the model glides very well, and thermals on the slightest bit of lift. You can get the original size plan Tlush Mite (oz2589) from Model Builder, No. 479-OT. The version presented here is enlarged 25%. With 450 square inches of wing area, it is ideal for the Astro 02 belt drive electric system with a fifth cell added to the power pack. The 035 system will work too, and I suppose the 05 would fit, but it is much heavier than I intended.

I built my model from Sig four to six-pound, 'very light' wood. I stripped all the stock from three sheets of Sig 5/32 x 3 balsa. My finished, but uncovered airframe, with the wheels, weighed in at seven ounces. Completed and covered, the Mite tips the scales at 23 ounces with the radio and motor batteries aboard.

The secret to good performance with the Mite and the 02 system is light weight. You could build yours from 3/16 stock, but remember, the heavier you build it, the lower the flight time; 'nuff said, lets build it!

FUSELAGE Build both sides over the plan, one on top of the other. The bottom longeron should be laminated at the front to achieve the required curve.

Once the sides are dry, separate them with a razor blade. Pin the sides upside down over the top view, and cement the cross pieces in place. Take care to get the structure square and straight.

Note that the diagonals used in the top and bottom are 1/16 x 5/32 balsa and are installed opposite to one another. balsa and cemented in place on top of the fuselage.

I cut my firewall from 1/8 Liteply, a nd cemented it in place after cutting the holes for the 02 belt drive unit (see photo).

Bend the landing gear from 1/16 music wire. The front and rear legs are installed with a 1/8 x 1/4 spruce block, grooved and glued to the back of the firewall, and to a small piece of 1/8 Liteply added to the fuselage. Bind the legs together with copper wire and solder them together. The spreader bar is bent to shape and likewise soldered to the front legs..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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