Control Line Model (oz12614)
About this Plan
Control Line Model (no name). Control line trainer model.
Note this is not a full size plan. This is a scan of the drawings as they appeared in the pages of the book, as printed.
Note this plan (and build instructions) are excerpts from the Vic Smeed book 'Working Models', thanks to Mary at https://rclibrary.co.uk/title_details.asp?ID=1195.
Quote: "Chapter Five: A Control-line Model for 1/2 to 1 cc.
CONTROL-LINE model aeroplanes can be flown in a much more restricted space than freeflight models, since the main requirement is a circle clear of obstructions, of only about a hundred feet in diameter or, in the case of this little model, a maximum of fifty feet in diameter. For this reason it is usually unnecessary to travel out into the country to fly control line, but by the same token it is easier to cause a nuisance with this type of model; nothing can be more irritating to someone trying to have an afternoon nap than the continual whine of a small engine running near at hand. It must also be remembered that the model can fly overhead to the extent of the lines, and even 25 ft plus the height of the flier can bring the model in contact with overhead electric wires. About a dozen modellers have been killed or severely burned by foolishly flying near overhead power lines. It therefore pays to find a suitable space away from houses and hazard. It is very nice to be able to take a model off from the ground since this makes control considerably easier if you have never flown one before, but even in a field of rough grass an old piece of linoleum or roofing felt will make an adequate runway.
The method of controlling the model is almost universal; two lines run from a handle held in the hand to two lead-out wires attached to a bellcrank in the model. Movement of the handle swings the bellcrank and at 90 degrees to the lead-outs a push-rod is connected to a horn on the elevator, thus moving the elevator up and down and controlling the model in pitch. A stable model is not therefore necessary provided that balance is within certain limitations. If the model is capable of staying out at the end of the lines no stability problems will arise.
Start construction by laying out the wing. This is a piece of 18-in x 3-in x 1/16-in balsa, to the back of which is glued a triangle 18 in x 1-1/2 in at its maximum. The joint should be glued along its whole length, and the wing panel then pinned down on a flat board with a sheet of grease-proof paper covering the board to prevent the cement from sticking to it. Cement a length of 1/4-in square hard balsa to the leading edge, (the straight side of the sheet) then cut the ribs R1, 2, 3 and 4 (two of each will be needed) and cement in place. A second sheet of 18-in x 3-in x 1/16-in is now glued over the top of the ribs and a second triangle glued on to the back to complete the wing upper surface. When the cement is completely dry, sand the whole wing smooth and round off the leading edge as shown in the drawings; the tips can also be rounded off slightly.
Now cut two fuselage sides by drawing one out on a sheet of 1/8-in balsa, cutting this and using it as a template for the second sheet. Also cut bulkhead B3, then cement the fuselage sides over the wing and insert B3..."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Quote: "Hello Outerzone! Hope everyone is doing well? My latest build a Vic Smeed design. One of his few c/l models. From the book, Vic Smeed 'Working Models'. It's in your library section. Fitted with a DC Bantam. If anyone is thinking of building one I would suggest moving the wing back 1/2 in because there is very little room for the fuel tank and to get the CG in the right shop it’s going to need a good bit of lead up front. Best regards, Tony Wright "
Supplementary file notes
Article (chapter 5 of the book).
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