SE5a (oz12612)

About this Plan

SE5a. Radio control scale model WWI biplane, for .020 engine.

Quote: "Vest Pocket SE5a, by Fred Angel. What could be more appealing than a shelf-sized scale model that can be flown for fun with just enough radio control to keep it almost within arm's reach? 'Til somethin' else comes along, try this!

I suppose a couple of things triggered this model: first, somewhere in the darkening corners of my senile brain I remember the fun I had with Knobby-knee Northrop's Lil Beau Bipe (oz1601), a mini-model that goes back many, many, many moons ago in the days of rubber band escapements, in which the sequence of flying went something like this: press the button once for a left-hand turn. Lookey there, it worked! Now watch while I press again for right ... Press ... Nothing Press, press .. . PRESSSSSSS! Crunch.

The second stimulus was the fun I had with the Baby Ace System, flying a small glider in my back yard. Stealing the basic design from Will Jr, and with the reliability of this outstanding pulse system, it was an easy job to design this model. With a snappy Cox .020 Pee Wee in the nose, it has a lively performance.

Sooooo clean up your bench and let's whip one out. I suppose if you're in a hurry you could use 1/16 sheet sides for the fuselage, but the 1/8 framework is kind of fun to build, especially if you remember those good old 'measure cut and swear' days.

After building two identical sides, sheet the inside nose section from motor mount F to bulkhead 5 with 1/16 stock. Mark and groove this lamination to receive the cabane struts. Then glue the motor mount to the nose and the bulkhead 5 with the matching bottom crosspiece. Make sure everything is lined up true. Next, carefully form the cabane struts and epoxy in place as shown. A small scrap piece will sandwich them in the grooves.

Formers 1 through 4 which are identical, are glued in place, as well as the plywood landing gear plate and the bottom nose planking. You can add a larger tank between formers 1 and 2, but if you do, make sure to fuel-proof the compartment. Now you're all set to pull the tail together and add the rest of the formers and the crosspieces on the bottom. Add stringers, front sheet covering, ply sub fin, and the motor wedge.

The tail surfaces can be made in a matter of minutes. Be sure to glue in the stiffener inserts. Also note the tail incidence wedge which is glued to the fuselage before mounting the stab. Next, glue the fin to the stab and both tail blocks.

Before covering the body with lightweight silkspan, plan your actuator installation. It's a lot easier to get those big clumsy fingers in the open framework than after you've hidden everything. Follow the recommendations of your radio manufacturer. If using the Ace system, the actuator slides in a channel just forward of station 5..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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