About this Plan
Spatman. Radio control sport model for 2-3 functions and .09 - .15 engines.
Note this kit used a veneer-covered foam wing. No formers shown.
Planfile cleanup (minor paper creases, and some pencil lines removed) by Pilgrim.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Note it has been pointed out that this design bears a startling resemblance to the the Fred Reese Quickie (oz5856) from Dec 1972 RCM.
Update 10/12/2020: Added kit instructions, thanks to RoyThompson.
Quote: "The Spatman is a high-performance sports model with angular but attractive lines. It is not a beginner's model as although it has only elevators and rudder flying surface control it will respond and roll as if ailerons were fitted. Really rapid construction is possible with this extensively prefabricated kit and we are sure you will enjoy many happy hours of inexpensive and exhilarating flying.
Construction: Layout the fuselage sides (1) so that you have one right and one left hand side, and to the inner face of each laminate 1/16” sheet from (2) with the grain vertical from the nose to the position of the front of built up former (3). Use either white glue or a contact adhesive for this.
Mark each side for the wing dowels and drill ¼” holes to accept these.
Make up former (3) from ½” x ¼” strip ensuring that the crossmembers finish 1/16” from the edge of the uprights. Cut from the same strip the two tailplane reinforcing members and glue into position on each of the fuselage sides. When dry cut away the small section to clear the tail plane slot.
Epoxy the 5/8” x ½” hardwood bearers to each fuselage side in the position shown and then add the ¼” sheet engine bay doublers (4) and (5) to the siders above and below the engine bearers. The fabricated bulkhead (3) and the front former (6) are next glued into position on one of the sides exactly at right angles and in alignment. Glue the 1/16” plywood strip (7) to the underside of the fuselage from the middle of the bulkhead (3) right up to the nose as shown. Use the excess length to assist in pulling round the lower fuselage curve. When dry, cut off the excess ply, trim this to length and glue in place as the cabin windscreen. Add the 1/8” ply undercarriage mount using a generous quantity of epoxy to the cabin floor.
Bend the tailskid to shape from the 14 S.W.G. wire and bind and epoxy to the 1/8” tailskid mount.
Lightly chamfer the inner rear ends of the fuselage sides, pull together and glue securely using two clothes pegs to clamp whilst drying. Add 1/16” cross grain sheeting from part (2) to the rear lower fuselage right back to the tail. Mount securely in position from above. Now add the upper 1/16” sheet ensuring that the grain is across the fuselage, and when dry sand the fuselage to final shape.
The fin (10) can now be glued into position making sure it is vertical and in line with the fuselage. Add triangular reinforcing pieces cut from (11) to either side of the fin. Now add the tailplane (12) to the slot in the rear fuselage gluing generously and checking it is at right angles to the fin. Using the supplied mylar hinges fit rudder (13) and elevator (14) in position and check for free movement.
Cut the wheel spats out from the A.B.S. moulding, and glue together inside the former lip using either a solvent such as M.E.K. or of the modern 10 second cyanoacrylates adhesives. Drill a 4 B.A. clearance hole in the inner face of each spat and fit to the dural undercarriage pressing complete with a 2” diameter wheel. Using one 4 B.A. nut to lock the spat to the undercarriage and the other nut to hold the wheel on, not forgetting to fit washers each side of the wheel. A little epoxy or a touch of solder should be used on the outer nut to prevent possible unscrewing.
Sand the inner face of each foam wing panel to give a snug fit when each wing tip is blocked up to 2” to give the correct dihedral angle (if one wing is laid flat the other must be blocked up 4”). Epoxy the two wing panels together and when dry wrap the joint with the supplied fibreglass tape and impregnate well with fibreglass or epoxy resin. Add the tips (15) and the 1/32” ply band protectors (16) using either epoxy or white glue and finally sand to shape.
Finish the model by your favourite method and install the engine and mount using the screws supplied direct into the hardwood bearers. Install a fuel tank so that the feed and vent tubes pass through the front bulkhead (6).
It is recommended that the radio deac is wrapped in foam and placed in a polythene bag before installing under the fuel tank. Install the receiver and servo in the cabin area to give C.G. position between 2” and 2-1/2” from the wing leading edge.
Use a 7x6 prop on a 15 or a 7x4 on a 09 motor.
Control surface movements should be ¼” either way to begin with.
If you fly over rough ground you can unbolt the undercarriage and hand launch without any bother (remember the nose and bottom are 1/16 ply :)
Supplementary file notes
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User commentsHi this is a photo of the Bowman Spatman that I’ve converted to electric power [main pic, 003]. Motor is 2830-1200 with 9x6 prop and 3s 2200 mAh battery. Best Regards,
Roy Thompson - 07/01/2021
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