JAM Trainer (oz12543)

About this Plan

JAM Trainer. Radio control trainer model. All-sheet design. Wingspan 59 in, for .09 engines.

Quote: "Many trainers have been designed but few of them have been created specially for the beginner with little experience in building or flying RC. The JAM Trainer is a lightweight model powered with an inexpensive .09 motor. Since it is light and low powered, it will fly slowly giving the novice flier time to react with the proper control actions. It will not tend to destruct itself if a crash should occur.

The model is an all-balsa type and does not require covering over 'open areas.' The only building techniques that might challenge a beginner are: plywood cutting, sheet balsa joining and wire bending. Some special instructions will be given on these techniques.

If you build the trainer carefully, and read some of the fine material available in magazines and books on learning to fly radio control, you have an excellent chance of learning to fly the trainer without help, But if you can obtain help from an experienced RC flier, by all means do so. Have him make the first flight or two to check out and trim model. Then let him give you a few flying lessons. The trainer is inherently stable and, therefore will fly by itself without control. If it is balanced right and the surfaces are warp-free and set at the angles shown on the plan, the trainer should fly straight ahead and gain altitude at a reasonable rate with motor peaked out. Unless you have ideal runway conditions, the first flight should be from a hand-launch. Don't try any turns until you have plenty of altitude. Remember that without an elevator, the model will lose altitude when you make turns. Four points are of extreme importance to the novice who is by himself.

First: remember that control stick motion is reversed when model is flying toward you. Novices should fly 'over-the-shoulder.' Keep your body pointed in same direction as the model is flying and you won't have to reverse your thinking when it comes toward you. As you gain confidence, try flying toward yourself facing the model. Then, practice making the model fly in horizontal figure eights in front of you.

Second: the most difficult problem for a novice is overcontrolling and getting into a spiral dive. If you are flying with rudder-only control, your problem is simple: give opposite rudder. If you also have motor control, slow motor to idle. If you have elevator control, don't touch it until the wings are level; then give up control. The rule is level the wings first. If you give up-control when you are in a spiral dive, you may tighten the spiral and more than likely spiral into the ground.

Third: to lose altitude or to limit the zoom after spiral dive with rudder-only control, you turn right or left. With practice, you will be able to spiral down at any rate you choose and kill the tendency to climb rapidly when you end spiral by applying opposite rudder. Climb or zoom results from extra speed that builds up during spiral dive.

Fourth: first flights should be made in calm air. In any case, you must learn to fly the plane in an area upwind from where you are standing. This will give you a fair chance at landing nearby if engine fails.

Construction: The most important thing in construction of a flying model is a flat work surface. The surface should be a minimum of 12 x 30 in and preferably made of soft pine. A drawing board is an excellent work surface. A 2 x 12 x 36 inch pine plank also is excellent; it should be planed or thickness sanded to provide a really flat surface. A narrow flush door from your lumber yard is an economical solution. Success depends upon the wing and tail surfaces being flat, warp-free and well aligned..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Scans from dfritzke, cleanup by Circlip.

Supplementary file notes

Article.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction