Scientific ROG (oz12537)

 

Scientific ROG (oz12537) by Donald Garofalow from Scientific 1939 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Scientific ROG. Rubber sport model.

Plan includes full build instructions.

Quote: "Before you begin the actual construction of any model you should study the plan carefully. Read the instructions and check them with the plan so you will understand thoroughly just how to go about construct-ing the various parts. The printed pieces should be cut out as called for with a Scientific Model Knife or a razor blade which has been broken to a pointed tip. If you use a double-edged blade, be sure you protect your fingers by putting adhesive tape or something similar over the top and bottom edges where you hold the blade with your fingers.

You should have a flat surface such as a drawing board to pin the plan to as all the parts are made directly over the plan with waxed-paper in between the plan and the work to prevent them from sticking together. The wood is held in place with straight pins until the cement is thoroughly dry. Never pin through the wood but place the pins at convenient intervals along both sides of the members.

The fuselage or motor-stick is made first. Taper the end from the rear hook back as shown. Cement the thrust-bearing and rear hook in place and wrap with thread while the cement is still wet. Cement the 1/16 sq wing supporters to the sides of the motor-stick. Refer to the front view of the model and bend the landing gear wire to shape. Cement it in place and then cement the supporters 'B' in place. When the cement has set, shape these to a streamlined shape.

The propeller should be shaped according to the pattern on the plan and the photos. Sandpaper the blades smooth and balance it. Sandpaper the heavy blade until both are equal. Slide the two washers and then the pro-peller on the propeller shaft. Bend it over as shown and cement in place.

The tail surfaces are very simply made. Place waxed-paper over the plan and pin and cement the parts in place. Allow the cement to dry thoroughly then re-move from the plan and sandpaper the edges round. The wing is built the same as the tail parts. Do not forget to elevate the wing-tips to the required height before you cement the top front spar in the center. Keep Ribs 03 pinned to the table when you do this and use blocks or books to elevate the tips while the cement is drying. The dihedral is put in after the two wing panels are completed except for the top spar.

The covering is next. The surfaces are first covered with the colored tissue as noted and then the design is put on top. Clear dope is used to apply the tissue to the framework. When applying tissue do not stretch the paper in an attempt to get it on tight or it will be sure to turn out wrinkled and warped. The whole secret is getting it on evenly. If it appears baggy, don't worry as it will tighten up nicely when you spray it lightly with water from an atomizer or something similar. Watch the surfaces carefully while they are drying or pin them to a flat surface to prevent warpage.

The color design is applied to the tissue with banana oil. To apply, mark the position of the design on the surface to be decorated and place the cut-out tissue in position. With a soft brush, preferably a new one, apply banana oil directly over the tissue. The banana oil soaks through quickly and makes a smooth, neat job.

After the model is covered and decorated we are ready to assemble it. Scrape away the tissue where the stabilizer meets the fuselage and where the rudder meets the stabilizer and cement both in position. The wheels are held on with a drop of cement. The wing is held on with a rubber-band which runs underneath the motor-stick and across the top of the wing.

Flying: Best results are obtained by using a winder. A hand-drill with a wire hook attached in the chuck can be used satisfactorily if a model airplane winder is not available. Bend a wire hook in the shape of an "S" to permit the rubber to be attached to the winder and then to the rear hook in the fuselage. To wind the motor, have someone hold the propeller hub and the model securely and with the rubber attached to the winder by means of the 'S' hook, stretch the motor to about twice its normal length. As you wind, gradually come in closer until you have the required turns in the motor. The amount of turns depends on the flying con-ditions. If you have a very large open space such as an airport or its equivalent, then you can wind the motor fully, that is, until the rubber feels pretty stiff, otherwise, put considerably less turns in the motor or you will be sure to lose the model. In either case it is best to have an automobile handy as a pro-perly adjusted, well balanced model of this type can fly out of sight quite easily.

Launch your model directly into the wind or a little to the right of it. If it shows any stalling tendencies, move the wing back a little, or if this is not desired, then bend the stabilizer slightly downward in the back. Reverse this proceedure if the model doesn't climb properly. Control the direction of flight by means of the rudder.

We believe that when you have completed this model you will be delighted with the results. We would appreciate receiving any reports and photographs you may care to send us upon completion of your model. Designed by Donald Garofalow."

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Scientific ROG (oz12537) by Donald Garofalow from Scientific 1939 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz12537)
    Scientific ROG
    by Donald Garofalow
    from Scientific
    1939 
    25in span
    Rubber F/F
    formers unchecked
  • Submitted: 15/09/2020
    Filesize: 1042KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: theshadow

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* Credit field

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Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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