The Drake. Free flight gas seaplane, for .020 to .049 power. Amphibian, the plan shows wheeled landing gear too.
Quote: "Once in a blue moon do you see an amphibian as nice as this one. It flies on .02 to .049's. The Drake, by Ken Willard.
Model amphibians present a unique challenge. Not only must they have air and water stability, they must have a hull and float design that permits water take-offs. Yet, when the wheels are down, the hull and the floats are protected and flying on land won't damage their structure.
The Drake was designed to meet this challenge. It flies equally well on field, or lake. Only minor adjustments are required to make the transition from landplane to sea-plane, and the effect on flight characteristics is hardly noticeable.
Some may question the flat-bottomed hull, but experiments show that for model work this type of hull is highly satisfactory; the author has used the basic hull design of the Drake on models all the way from 18 inch jobs powered by the Campus A-100 up to the design shown here with equal success. The flat bottom gives a 'sea sled' effect which makes water take-offs very successful. It also assures that the sponson-pontoons, which provide water stability when the model is at rest, will ride free of the water during take-off. When the model is 'on the step' the sponson-pontoons are well out of the water; also, the flat bottom of the hull resists lateral tipping when the model has attained 'step speed.'
Simplicity is the keynote in the Drake. A brief look at the photos and the plans will show how sheet balsa and strip balsa are used to yield the lines with a minimum of carving and fitting. Once you've collected the 1/16 sheet and the 3/16 x 1/4, 3/16 x 3/16, and the trailing edge stock from your local hobby dealer, you're ready to start.
Enlarge the plans to full size, cut out the templates from 1/16 sheet as called for on the plans, follow the step-by-step instructions for as-sembling them, and in a few hours you'll. be ready to test fly the Drake.
1. Cement 3/16 sq braces to sides in cabin and wing mount area as shown.
2. Cement tail former to one side, then cement other side to tail former, align-ing sides carefully. Let dry.
3. Insert all bulkheads, except noseblock, and cement. Pin together if necessary until dry.
4. Cement 3/16 sq crosspieces in place at top of windshield and on bottom at step. Trim ends to fit angle at which sides are set by bulkheads.
5. Press forward part of hull sides inward and cement nose bulkhead block in place. Hold together with pins until thoroughly dry.
6. Insert 3/16 x 9/16 x 11 in sponson cross-piece (made out of three pieces of 3/16" sq.) in hull sides. Make sure it is centered, then cement into place. Reinforce with gussets of 1/8 flat scrap balsa, cut to fit snugly against crosspiece and the 3/16 sq side braces.
7. Cement dowels for windshield and wing and tail mounting rubber bands in place.
8. Cover top and bottom with 1/16 sheet, grain running croswise of hull.
9. Cut out windshield and windows from cellulose acetate and cement in place. Crease windshield slightly where it curves around dowels. This makes it easier to install.
10. Add tail platform, making sure it will hold tail surface level with the wing.
11. Add the piece of trailing edge stock on top of fuselage which serves as a wing aligning block.
12. Sand smooth. Round the corners slightly at top of hull, but keep corners sharp on the bottom..."
Update 04/02/2016: Replaced this plan with a clearer copy, scanned from fullsize print, thanks to dfritzke.
Update 06/01/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
Previous scan version.
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This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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