Stinson Voyager 108 (oz12420)
About this Plan
Stinson Voyager 108-1,2&3. Scale model for rubber power. Wingspan 22.6 in.
Quote: "This is my plan for you that I am putting out into the public domain. The other 17 plans of "Classic American Lightplanes" that were published in Flying Models Magazine in the late 90's thru the 2000's I still sell separately. Attached are pics of the Stinson 108-2 and -3 Voyager and Flying Station Wagon... Best, Bill Schmidt."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Quote: "BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS. FUSELAGE: Start with the fuselage although you may prefer to do otherwise. Take the 2 main fuse side plates that the wings attach to and lay them on top of each other. They must match each other exactly! Now take a main wing rib that will glue to the side plates and sand and blend these all together using the lower wing spar stub square holes as the master datum reference index and will assure good alignment of the completed major assys. After this check is completed, you can begin to construct one of the 2 fuse sides.
Pin in place the main fuse sideplate very carefully over wax paper covered plan side view. Select a hard piece of 1/16 sq balsa for the lower longeron and fwd nose areas due to the hard loads to be encountered here. Cut and glue in the rest of the structure. Pencil the word 'inside R/H' on the fuse side plate.
When dry, remove and turn assy over and build the 2nd fuse side directly on pop of the 1st side to insure great accuracy of the 2 sides. Mark this 2nd side 'inside L/H'. When dry, remove and check your work. Due to variations in wood sizes, the pinned down side will be the flattest and better surface to be used of the model's fuse structure.
Lay 1 fuse side down with the note 'inside' facing you and glue 4 exact length stick crossmembers in the fuse constant width area dictated by the wing location. Lack of accuracy here, and the wings will sweep fwd or aft on final assy. Pick up this side with 4 sticks and place it sticks down on the other fuse side. Now, carefully glue each stick one at a time in its place. Make sure the notes 'inside' are inside. Now glue in the nose former generally denoted as Fl. Make sure it is straight viewed from the side and top.
Gently sand the 2 tail-ends of the fuse to a tapered 1/32 thickness and glue them together at the top only. This allows vertical alignment of the tailpost later on. Now glue in all the crossmembers and formers, top and bottom stringer locations are denoted with a starting place and an ending place by means of the master formers. The stringers are run in a straight line function between these formers. This guarantees a straight stringer installation with no ugly snaking.
Use a 1/16 thick sanding stick of ply or other hardwood to cut the notches in the intermediate formers. Now shim and sand the nose block retainer to fit snugly inside the nose former. With this in place lightly glue the noseblock to the retainer. Be careful not to glue this assy to the fuse..."
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User commentsThanks very much Bill Schmidt, for sharing this great design on OuterZone!
Dave D - 23/08/2020
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