About this Plan
Phoenix. Control line profile stunt trainer.
Quote: "A good stunt trainer doesn't have to be ashamed of its looks, even if it's a 'No-Cal' (profile fuselage). For .29 to .36 engines, it has a wingspan of 44 inches. Phoenix Profile Stunter, by Mike Parenteau.
I am basically a builder and not a terrific flyer. I also have built most of the profile control line kits available. After a while, they all began to look the same, so I tried my hand at designing something that I thought looked different. The result is the Phoenix, a profile stunter with a 44 inch span, full operational flaps, tapered wing, that will take a .29 to .36 engine. Mine is powered by a Super Tigre G35 on suction with a 10-6 prop. The original was a tail-dragger, but I added a tail wheel the second summer I flew it, and that greatly improved the takeoff and landing characteristics for hard surfaces.
WING AND FLAP ASSEMBLY: Start by covering the plans with wax paper or Saran Wrap, then cut out all ribs. Splice and pin the bottom spar in place on a building board. Cut the TE pieces from 3 inch wide stock. If 36 inch stock is used, it will be necessary to splice the TE in the center. Pin the TE to the board, then pin all ribs in posi-tion on the bottom spar. Remove the pins holding the spar to the building board and block it up so the trailing edge of the ribs can be pinned in place to the TE splice and pin the LE in position on all ribs, and glue all ribs to the bottom spar, TE and LE. Leave assembly pinned to the board and allow it to dry overnight. Then glue the top TE in position.
Cut out the bellcrank floor from plywood and drill a hole in it for the bellcrank bolt. Insert the bolt from the bottom of the floor and attach with a nut on the top. Place some epoxy on the head of the bolt, epoxy the 1/4 sq floor supports to the floor, and then epoxy the floor assembly in position between the center ribs. Next attach the LO wires and flap pushrod to the bell-crank. Now, slide the LO wires through the ribs, starting from the center and slip the bellcrank over the bolt. Fasten the bellcrank in place with a nut and place a drop of epoxy on the nut to keep it from vibrating loose.
Splice the top spar and glue it in place. Add the center sheeting on the top of the wing. Notch the sheeting for the pushrod exit. While this assembly is drying, carve and hollow out the wing tips. Drill holes in the inboard tip for the LO wires and install tubing or eyelets for bushings. Epoxy 3/4 oz of weight in the outboard tip. Attach the tips and allow the entire wing assembly to dry thoroughly. I allow at least 48 hours before I remove the wing from the building board. This extra drying time will help eliminate wing warps..."
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