Searcher 1M (oz12316)
About this Plan
Searcher 1M. Radio control hand launch glider model, for 2 channels. Low aspect ratio design.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 08/07/2020: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
Quote: "All the way from the USA, Mark Kummerow's Searcher 1M. A low Aspect Ratio 1 Metre wingspan Hand Launch Glider for two-function Mini R/C systems. Why not have a fling?
THE IDEA of a hand-launched R/C glider is not new here in the USA, for some years now American modellers have been enjoying this sport which is now receiving wider interest. The Searcher 1M, my own answer to RiC Chuck Gliding, is a versatile model similar in construction to a free-flight model, it can be hand-launched into thermals like a solid balsa free-flight chuckie, it can slope soar in light to moderate winds and can also be hand-towed or launched with a bungee.
For a small R/C hand-launched glider the major consideration is weight. My own philosophy over weight is - if it won't break, its too heavy and too strong! Selection of wood is thus very important to achieve an optimum 10 or 11 oz weight for the Searcher. Second consideration is choice of aerofoil which needs to have a wide speed range to cope with launch and glide phases of flight. From past experience, the Eppler 387 seemed like a good choice.
This model is small, you may need to alter the width of the fuslelage to accommodate your R/C equipment, check before starting construction by laying your gear over both plan and side elevation on the drawing.
(1) Pin down the bottom spar, blocking it up 1/16 in.
(2) Pin down 1/8 x 3/8 leading edge (LE).
(3) Pin down bottom trailing edge (TE, sheet, blocking it up 1/32 in to allow for the slight undercamber.
(4) The tip panel ribs are made using the sandwich technique.
(5) Glue all ribs in place (except omit W-2 and W-4 at the dihedral breaks).
(6) Add the vertical shear webbing.
(7) Block outer panel for the correct dihedral and add the dihedral brace.
(8) Glue in ribs W-2, outer panel top spars and TE top sheet.
(9) Block up inner panel for the upper dihedral and glue in dihedral brace and rib W-4.
(10) Add inner panel top spars and TE top sheet.
(11) Sand LE to match contour of ribs, add LE top sheet and top centre section sheeting.
(12) Add 1/4 in sheet tips, 1/6 x 3/16 LE and all cap strips.
(14) Lightly sand wing and set aside.
(1) Cut out fuselage sides (do not cut the holes for the wing yet), add 1/4in. triangular stock and 1/64 plywood doublers. Make sure you build a right and left side.
(2) Glue tail together and glue in F3, F4 and F6 and let glue dry.
(3) Add F2 and 1/8. plywood canopy mount.
(4) Add F1 - you may have to slice 1/4 in triangular stock to get it to bend.
(5) Install rudder and elevator pushrods and add nose block.
(6) Add top and bottom sheeting, tack glue canopy block in place.
(7) Sand to shape.
Assembly and Covering: Now is the time to cut the holes in the fuselage for the wing. Once the holes are cut to the proper size, carefully slide the wing in place. Ensure that the wing TE is perpendicular to the fuselage centre line and epoxy in place. Now you can cut the holes for your finger and add F5, F7 and F8. Cover the wing and fuselage assembly and the tail surfaces. Omit the covering where the tail surfaces are glued on. Hinge the rudder and elevator with a strip of heat-shrink film at least 1 in wide - attached on the top side opposite the bevelled edge.
I covered my model with Coverite 'Micafilm' because of its strength to weight ratio. You can of course cover the model with any heat-shrink, but remember you are trying to save weight.
Glue the horizontal tail in place - while carefully aligning it with the wing as viewed from the rear. Also ensure the slot in the stabiliser to receive the rudder is straight down the fuselage centre line. Epoxy the rudder and elevator horns in place and install the pushrods and your radio. Operate the servos to full travel to be sure there is no binding. Now, make sure the centre of gravity is as per the plans and get rid of any warps.
Flying: Hand-launch, mini high-start, thermal or slope - take your pick. I suggest you go over to the local park and start with a few gentle tosses, adding a little more muscle as you build confidence. Also start to aim a little higher, and soon you will be tossing the model up at about 60 degrees and getting 50 to 60 feet in altitude at the top of the climb. If the sun is hot, and the wind is not blowing you may just pick up a thermal. If a breeze is blowing it is best not to circle, but to do S turns - always turning into the wind - until you get lift. At the correct balance point the 'Searcher 1 M' will do loops, rolls and inverted flight.
When you have the 'Searcher 1M' mastered, then make the controls more sensitive (more travel). The more the better for real fun."
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