Super Cub (oz12271)
About this Plan
Super Cub. Radio control sport scale model. Wingspan 56 in, wing area 600 sq in. For .15 to .19 engines.
Planfile includes detailed build instructions.
Quote: "The Live Wire Super Cub is an R/C scale model of the very latest types of Piper Cubs such as the Super Cub, Cub Special and Cub Sprayer, these are the very latest models which are now in production at Piper. What deviations from true scale that there are become quite necessary if you wish a true high performance R/C model. The appearance is there, plus the very finest in R/C flying!
The Super Cub can provide performance of the very highest caliber and can be an excellent contest flyer in the hands of an experienced R/C pilot. Yet, the newcomer will find it to be a simple, likeable aircraft, easy to assemble and one that will practically fly itself if given half a chance.
The Super Cub will carry most any of the modern radios and control systems giving a wide range of choice for the type of controls. You may have rudder only control, rudder and engine controls or if desired the full compliment of rudder, engine and elevator controls, the choice is yours and the model is well suited to them all. The removable R/C unit will hold any of the commercial radios and actuators that may be needed to give the controls desired, just use a larger size engine with the heavy radios and the smallest size with the lightest equipment; in that way performance stays on the same level regardless of equipment used.
The design is a development of the Live Wire series and is the best compromise possible for R/C scale flying. Any departure from the design will have a direct effect upon some flight characteristic and could impair the flying qualities. Construction is straight forward and rugged, so if in doubt refer to control line stunt practice and assemble the model well. Be sure to pay particular attention to weight in the aft portions, sand the structure well and keep the tail light - a bit of excessive weight there multiplies rapidly when ballast must be added to balance it out.
CONSTRUCTION: The removable R/C unit: Assemble the R/C unit first. Set the two sheet side pieces up on the drawings and cement the end pieces in place. After choosing the arrangement necessary for your equipment from the R/C sheet install the battery boxes and equipment mounts as indicated. Install all equipment and wire up the components, then install the bottom floor of the R/C unit.
Fuselage: Use the completed R/C unit as a jig by placing it in its place on the top fuselage drawings. Cement the vertical stiffners to bulkheads No.2 and 3. Pin them in place on the positioned R/C unit. Now erect the remaining bulkheads in their proper places on the drawing. Next take the two 1/8 x 2 fuselage keel pieces and cut them to size using the side view as a template. Place a 13/16 block at the aft end of the top view drawing as indicated to block up the keel pieces. Now cement the two keel pieces in place.
Add the fuselage center sides. Install the top fuselage longerons. Now, add the cabin sides. Lay out the location of the engine bearers on bulkheads No. 1 and 2 and install them. Note the right thrust required. Cement the fuel tank in place. Add all reinforcements shown. Install bulkheads 1A and 2A and the 1/4 x 3/8 stringers. Cover this section with the 1/8 cowl sheeting, dampen on the outside to bend easily. Add top cowl and cabin blocks. Install the top stiffners and sheet fill in to the R/C unit compartment. Add all sheet fill to the aft portion of the model. When dry remove from the drawing for underside work.
Install the 1/4 x 3/8 and the 1/4 sheet stiffners between bulkheads 1 and 2. Cover this section with the 1/8 lower cowl sheeting. Add side cowl blocks cutting exhaust opening before ce-menting in place. Install all lower R/C compartment stiffners. Install back up block and maple gear block, cement well. Add 3/16 x 3/8 former to gear block. Install 3/16 x 3/8 fore and aft keel stringer. Add all 3/16 x 3/8 bottom keel formers and taper to the main keel sides. Install fairing block and sheet fill in, carve to shape.
Make all access cut outs and fit the stabilizer mount, check angle according to the plans carefully. Using a knife and sanding block work the whole fuselage down carefully until you have an absolute smooth surface. All equipment installations should be made at this time including the engine, push rods, tail skid, guides, etc. Check carefully for perfect operation and remove again to prepare for covering and finish. Now add the dowels required for all rubber band mountings.
Rudder and fin: The fin is a simple built-up structure. Assemble it on the drawings from the strips indicated. When thoroughly dry remove from drawings and sand in the airfoil shape with a sanding block, then add sheeting required. The sheet balsa rudder is sanded to a wedge shape and fastened to the fin with good sewn fabric hinges. When the stabilizer has been completed the fin is cemented to it checking alignment carefully.
Stabilizer and elevators: The stabilizer and elevators are built separately, joined after they are completed. Build the stabilizer right on the drawings. use brads along the inside of the leading edge to form a jig to bend the leading edge pieces around. Using the blocking indicated, pin the 1st 1/8 x 3/8 piece in place. Then pin the main spar and trailing edge in place as indicated. Now, cut the 1/8 x 1/2 strip ribs to size and cement in place. Next add the remaining two 1/8 a 3/8 leading edge strips to the 1st one with cement. Add the tip pieces and when dry remove from the drawings. Now, with a sand-ing block shape the strip ribs to an airfoil.
Next, cover the center section with 1/16 sheet. Notch the elevators and cement the connector dowel in place watching alignment carefully. The elevators are now carved and sanded to a wedge shape. Bend up and install the wire horn, bind with thread and cement well. The elevators are now fastened to the stabilizer with good sewn fabric hinges, cement well. When rudder only control is used, the elevators are cemented directly to the rear stabilizer spar, no hinges or horn are required.
Wing: The two wing panels are built separately, joined later and the tips added after completion. First take the bottom leading edge sheet and cement a 3/16 sq. spar to it using a rib as a guide for location. Pin this in place on the drawing and add the leading edge. Pin the lower trailing edge sheet in place. Locate and cement all ribs in place except the center one. Add center section splices as shown. Install top 3/16 sq spar and top trailing edge sheet. Remove from drawing when dry and repeat for the opposite half. note that center rib becomes the tip rib for this half.
When completed join both halves at the center with the splices, check dihedral carefully and add the center rib. Install the top leading edge sheeting, cap strips and center section covering to each panel separately keeping the panel fastened to a level surface when this is done. When dry the tips can be added by installing the tip plates, bulkheads and then top sheet covering. Using a knife and sanding block work the whole wing down to a smooth contour. Spoilers are made by splitting a 3/16 sq down the middle and fitting in place, keep the edge of them sharp.
Covering and painting: The entire model must be covered with silk span or for a more durable job use silk. Nylon would be excessively heavy. First sand the entire model minutely with fine paper and then apply a heavy coat of clear dope, fuel proof variety. When dry sand lightly again and repeat. The fabric is best applied wet and one section at a time, 4 sections to each part of the model. The fabric is wet by dunking it into a supply of water - bath tub is fine - and then holding it up until the excess drains off.
Lay the fabric on the part to be covered with the grain running the long way of the section, draw it up so that it is tight by working around the outside gradually, removing the wrinkles as you do. Then while still damp apply a coat of dope to all wooden portions of the structure, work in well with a brush. Do not dope where there is no wood. When completely dry, apply two successive heavy coats of dope to the whole portion. Allow to dry and sand lightly with fine paper.
Apply 2 more coats of dope a bit lighter than the original ones. Sand lightly between each of these. Now, the color can be applied and it should be 2 coats, sprayed if possible. Do not use excessive amounts of colored paint, it is heavy.
A well trimmed model is impressive, there are several color schemes for these Cubs. The Cub Special is usually blue and yellow, yellow wings and stabilizer and the upper portion of fuselage. The rudder and lower fuselage is blue. The Super Cub is usually one solid color, a blue or green with a contrating single stripe on the fuselage. The Sprayer is a solid color with no trim, yellow or silver.
Radio and actuator installation: You will note that the R/C sheet shows all radio and actuator equipmqnt installed in the removable R/C unit, thus you can make this installation out of the model and even before construction commences as suggested. Before commencing you should study the radio manufacturer's instructions very carefully, by doing this you can save trouble later on. The one exception may be flight batteries, this arrangement makes use of pen cells as they are the easiest to obtain and usually are fresher stock than others. The method shown meets with all radio manufacturer's approval and will give even longer service in some instances.
On the R/C sheet are shown examples of the 3 basic radio systems, single, dual and 5 channel. Choose the example to fit your equipment. and follow it carefully even though you may be using a different brand equipment than that shown, the arrangement is what counts. The Cub can be expected to carry a maximum of 2-1/4 lbs with a .19 engine, ideal weight is about 1-1/2 lbs with a .15 engine. In wiring the equipment follow the makers instructions, they know best. Use No. 24 stranded hook up wire and keep all wires as short as possible allowing a slight amount of slack to absorb vibration. Twist wires into cables where several run to the same place. With rubber band mounted receivers use a restrainer cord fastened to the rear dowel to prevent the receiver from coming too far forward on a hard landing.
Take your time, make a neat installation, use only fresh batteries, check the operation thoroughly and don't fly until everything works absolutely perfect. A well installed and thoroughly tested R/C system will be fool proof and give you immediate success at the flying field with no bothersome tinkering..."
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Quote: "Received these plans this afternoon, and as is customary for me, I had them scanned so they are backed up in the hard drive. I didn't see this kit plan in your listing, so here you go..."
Update 22/06/2020: Added alternate plan (different layout) thanks to Eduardo.
Supplementary file notes
Sheet 2, shows detailed (1957-style) RC installation.
Alternate plan (EBC).
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User commentsHi Steve, Beautiful rendition of the Debolt Cub. I myself made my own version of the plan which I am sending in case you want to upload it [see supplement files]. It is not as cleaned as yours but it is good enough. I re-arrange the components in order to have a smaller sheet which is easier to lay out on the working table. I also turned both side and top views of the fuselage because I dislike fuselages seen from the right side.
After so many years, finally we have this model.
Eduardo - 22/06/2020
The Livewire Super Cub was my first RC model having been built by my dad (with my assistance). Flew it with an Orbitrol single stick radio and PS-1 servos and an OS .19. The OS didn't have enough guts for an ROG so it was always hand launch, empty the tank and glide to a landing.
Thanks for the plans, I can't wait to build another.
Mike Denest - 22/06/2020
Thanks Steve for uploading my version of the plan and also happy to know that after 8 years of searching this plan on OZ, several modellers, not only me, want to build this beautiful aircraft. Why the kit didn't do good on sales, I don't know. The Champion sold much better not being so attractive, at least to me.
Eduardo - 23/06/2020
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