Gull II (oz122)

 

Gull II (oz122) by Vito M Garofalo from Comet 1963 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Gull II. Free flight rubber powered sport model. Plan also shows alternate installation of Cox .010 engine.

Plan includes full build instructions, complete with a series of photos showing assembly.

Quote: "Build the fuselage side frames on the shaded layout of the fuselage side view. Put wax paper over the layout to keep the glue from sticking to it. Use straight pins to hold the strips.

When both side frames are made, cement F2 where it belongs between the two sides at the nose. Now glue the back ends together.

While that's drying, you can cut all those crossbraces you will need. See note at fuselage top view. The first crossbraces to glue in are the ones at F5. Now glue in all the others. Cement formers Fi and F17 at nose. Follow with formers F3 to F8. Don't forget to glue in gusset A so that F4 will have the correct tilt.

Cement sub-top F12 between side frames at plug cabin - hold with pins until dry. Now glue cabin top F13 over F12. Cement all of the stringers in place. Bevel formers Fl to F4 to take the thin balsa nose cowling in kit. Glue halves of cowling together before gluing it to fuselage. Hold it with rubber bands until it's good and pry. Cement cabin cowling to former F5a - hold with pins until dry. Make nose block - see picture 15. Sandpaper the whole fuselage carefully.

This is the best way to keep the shaped leading edge straight while you are pinning it down on your board. Get a square piece of wood or something like it to hold the back against when pushing in the pins.

Build the left and right wing directly over the layout. Put wax paper over it, then pin down the shaped leading edge (see picture 5) and trailing edge. Cement wing tip parts W9R and W10R in place first - then W11R and W12R on top of these - and W13R and W14R on top of that. Now cement tip spar W21R in place and the wing spar against it. Glue W20R pieces in place.

Now you cement all the ribs in their proper places over the layout. Even though these are die cut as all the other parts, you may have to do some trimming of your own for good fits.

Cut the leading edge to size and pin it down to start the wing center section. Glue brace W15 behind it. Cement spar w17 behind spar brace w16 and pin it down over the layout carefully. Now glue in both W2 ribs and W1 rib in place. Glue sub spar W18 to back of ribs and cement W19 to it.

When the wing framework is thoroughly dry, trim away extra balsa with a razor blade. Sandpaper each wing with care and a sandpaper block. It should be free of all lumps, bumps and sharp edges - because they will show through the tissue covering. The wing tips especially should be trimmed carefully with a razor blade and sandpapered so that they will have an upward sweep as shown.

Trim the leading and trailing edges to blend into ri8 shapes. The stabilizer shown in the fuselage side view will give you an idea. Sandpaper both sides carefully to make it free of lumps and bumps.

The two finished wing frames are joined together with the wing center section to form the complete wing. Slide each wing onto the center section to check the points of contact for cementing. Glue each wing carefully to the center section holding it with pins until dry. Trim the edges of W20 so they will blend into the trailing edge. Sandpaper the center section, making it blend smoothly.

Build the rudder over the layout. All of your airplane's framework must be sandpapered smooth before covering with tissue. The wing, fuselage and tail parts are covered first. After covering, glue the rudder and stabilizer parts to the fuselage with care. After this is done, spray the model with water to shrink the tissue and draw it up tightly. Then it is doped. See tissue covering instructions.

Build the stabilizer directly over the layout. Put wax paper over it and pin down parts S1, S2 and S3. Glue S4 over S1 and S2. Cut and bend spar S10 and pin it down - follow with spar S11.

Cement each rib carefully in its proper place, it will be necessary to trim the notches a little more so that the ribs will fit the way they should. Let dry thoroughly..."

Update 15/09/2020: Replaced this plan with a clearer copy. This is from the same scan, but here it's been cropped, rotated, aligned and cleaned up.

Supplementary file notes

Previous scan version.

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Gull II (oz122) by Vito M Garofalo from Comet 1963 - model pic

Datafile:

Gull II (oz122) by Vito M Garofalo from Comet 1963 - pic 003.jpg
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Gull II (oz122) by Vito M Garofalo from Comet 1963 - pic 004.jpg
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Scaling

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