Ultimate Eee-Z-Fli (oz12179)
About this Plan
Ultimate Eee-Z-Fli. Radio control sport-scale model. Wingspan 44 in, wing area 660 sq in, for OS .40 FP engine.
Quote: "Build an Ultimate, Eee-Z-Fli style. By Al Wheeler. One of the world’s premier competition aerobatic aircraft, the Ultimate has become by far the most-modeled biplane of the past few years. Here’s an affordable .40 size sport version in the author’s unique EEE-Z-FLI style of construction.
Considering the Ultimate Biplane’s numerous achievements in the TOC and other aerobatic competitions, the fact that it has become a popular modeling subject is understandable. Most of the current model offerings, however, are big airplanes - so big that the initial cost is high, the engines required run into megabucks, and transportation to and from the flying site requires assembly before you can fly and disassembly before you can go home.
For those who prefer a smaller Ultimate, the EEE-Z-FLI .40 size model is ideal. Cost is low, the engine is affordable, and transportation is simple (fully assembled, it will fit easily into most compacts, even in the trunk!). Also, little is lost in performance; the .40 powered EEE-Z Ultimate, with its 660 square inches of wing and an all-up weight of 5.25 pounds, gives an excellent account of itself when flown next to .60 and .80 powered kit models.
In keeping with the Eee-Z-Fli (oz12170) tradition, construction is basic, the parts count is low, no exotic materials are used, and the flight performance and ground handling are outstanding. lnitial flights indicated straight tracking on takeoff, the tail coming up by itself with neutral elevator trim and the aircraft lifting off as it attained sufficient speed. It was found early on that the ailerons are quick, a characteristic that your writer likes, however, one that may be changed to suit your taste.
Rudder also has considerable authority - great for knife-edge flight. The aircraft has neutral stability and will stay in the attitude you leave it in. Loop and roll combinations are lots of fun, as are all aerobatic maneuvers. The glide is normal and the aircraft is hard to slow down for a biplane - must be a clean machine! Once slowed down, flare and landing, either three-point or on the mains, is straightforward with an easily controlled rollout (that big rudder again). To sum up, the flight characteristics are most pleasing and the EEE-Z Ultimate will do anything you ask of it.
CONSTRUCTION: Work the instructions and the plans as a unit; an item that may be unclear in one may be more understandable in the other. If all else fails, get in touch with Al at 525 Kumulani Dr, Kihei, HI 96753; (808) 879- 3086.
EMPENNAGE: The tail surfaces are all sheet balsa. Note the 1/16 plywood doublers on both sides of the rudder. Slot the stabilizer, elevators, fin and rudder for hinges, and install hinges in the stab and fin only. Round all edges and you're done.
FUSELAGE: Doublers D-1, D-2 and D-3 are glued to the FS-1 fuselage sides with spaces in between for the firewall and bulkheads. Install bulkheads B-1 and B-2 on one FS-1, then place the remaining FS-1 on the building board (doublers up) and cement the bulkheads into the slots. Make sure everything is square and in properalignment. Epoxy the plywood firewall and cabane strut mounts in place; add triangle stock (not shown on the plans) between the bottom surface of the strut mounts and the inside of the fuselage. Add top formers F-1 through F-4.
Install the three hardwood landing gear support blocks with epoxy. (The horizontal piece is slotted for the landing gear wires; don’t drill the vertical blocks yet.) Add the 3/16 balsa bottom section aft of the firewall. Add the triangle stock gussets at each side of the firewall.
Install the front and rear wing support hardwood blocks and triangular blocks. (Use epoxy for all wing attachment structure.) The rear ends of the fuselage may now be pulled together and B-3 and B-4 installed. Be sure the rear fuselage joint is vertical; this is where bananas are born and bananas we don't need! Fit and install the filler block at the rear joint and install the cockpit floor.
Add F-5, F-6 and an extended F-5 from the front face of the vertical F-5 at an angle down to the cockpit floor; this becomes the rear support for the canopy. lnstall the 1/4 square top stringer. Plank the bottom from B-2 aft to the rear end with soft 1/8 balsa (cross grain); the section forward of B-2 will be fitted following wing installation. Form the four cabane struts from brass or aluminum; the prototype used K&S brass strips from the local hobby shop. Align them carefully, and when satisfied, drill the plywood supports and install 4-40 blind nuts on the bottom of the supports. Minor rebending can be done as required.
Being sure to maintain the 3-5/8 inch dimension shown on the plan, install the diagonal braces with #3 self-tapping screws. Recheck the strut attachment hardware for tightness - this is your last chance, so get it right!
Install the forward 1 /4 square top stringer. The top 1/16 skin is now added in pieces, working from the top edge of FS-1 to the center of the top stringer. Plan a joint at a point about midway between the struts and work to that point from the front and rear. Slot the skin for strut clearance as required. Sheet the turtledeck, going all the way back to the tail post. Slot the sides and top for the stab and fin..."
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