Tiporare (oz12175)

 

Tiporare (oz12175) by Dick Hanson from Model Builder 1980 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Tiporare. Radio control pattern plane, for .60 power.

Note this here is the Tiporare design at it appeared in MB, Feb 1980. The Tiporare was also later kitted by Dick Hanson and by Great Planes.

Quote: "Tiporare, by Dick Hanson. Currently the hottest pattern ship, the 'Tipo' is being flown by many of the top competition fliers, including National champ and FAI Team member, Dave Brown. Build one - it's the best.

Just exactly what is a Tiporare? If you are an active pattern flier you probably already know the answer: it's a Curare (oz5527) with a nose job, silicone shots and a fanny tuck.

We watched the championships at Ohio a few years ago and were particularly impressed with Hanno Prettner's plane, as well as his flying. Dave Brown was also impressed with what he saw and it wasn't long before little stacks of balsa and styrofoam were shuttling between his home and mine. When finished, I had a reasonably close example of a Curare.

We have built many pattern planes in the last five or six years, perhaps 150 or more. Big ones, little ones, bipes, .40 size, built-up wings, foam wings, etc., etc. But we really haven't come up with a bird that was as easy to fly correctly as the Curare.

Several more were built with various changes to see what would happen. Among these changes were side mounted engines with tuned pipes, decreased stab angle (cathedral), long ailerons, altered engine thrust lines, CG shifts, coupled flaps (Dave Brown and Tony Frackowiak both liked the coupled flaps, and I admit that the corners on the square eights were very crisp on Tony's plane when I flew it), landing gear relocation, thicker stab, and an old trick to artifically increase effective lateral area, a tuck down each side of the fuselage.

The plane as we show it here is our favorite arrangement of this design and is very easy to set up for Novice or Masters class flying, using any solid running side exhaust engine with a pipe. We feel you do not need or want the Tipo to fly at very high speeds. We have seen numerous pattern contests where good fliers have lost points simply because their planes flew so fast that the ballistic shot rolls and oversized loops and eights failed to impress the judges who were there to judge precision flying, not a one-man pylon race!

We have a few suggestions which should help you get the best results flying the Tiporare:

1) Select the lightest possible wood for all sheeting, leading and trailing edges, rudder and elevators, and fuse-lage blocks. Use medium wood on fuselage sides and use firm wood on the ailerons.
2) Avoid engines with high vibration levels. They will ruin your servos, among other things, and make it difficult to keep the plane in accurate trim.
3) Select a propeller which will give maximum vertical performance, not maximum speed out of a split-S.
4) Use a dual rate transmitter if possible, with rates on ailerons and elevators.
5) Use retracts or use itsy bitsy tires to eliminate the steering effect that can occur when you yaw the plane with the wheels down.

6) Do not try to redesign the construction to make the plane crashproof. This is a waste of time and will only add weight, which is the enemy of any pattern plane.
7) If you end up with a Tipo which weighs over 9 lb dry, consider selling it and building another, lighter one. We can find no reason to build this design heavier than 8-1/2 lb. We have built many of them at 7-1/2 to 8 lb finished, including pipe. Remember, a heavy plane will not fly better through any maneuvers, and excess power will simply make it faster, not better.
8) Balance is extremely important if you expect to realize maximum performance, especially in rolling or point maneuvers. A nose heavy set-up does nothing but screw things up. Sensitivity is best handled by an accurate dual-rate radio.
9) Flaps are a questionable feature. They do work, they are fun to play with, and they can be hooked up to be used as dive brakes (a la Curare) or as coupled controls with elevator (a la Dave Brown). It must be understood, however, that they can cost you 7 oz in weight penalty, they must be postively equal in operation, they can vibrate, they can be adjusted (misadjusted) to cause weird pitch control, and they require some good linkage fabrication to work properly. Our personal recommendation is leave 'em off. The plane will be lighter and easier for most people to set up.
10) Do not worry about slight variations in wing size (outline) from the plan, but make certain both sides are identical. This rule also applies to stabs, elevators, ailerons, etc.

You will need only the usual tools plus some long, straight sanding blocks. If you are building a balsa fuselage, we recommend that you carefully fit all pieces and use cyanoacryiate adhesives as much as possible. The blocks (top, nose, etc.) are easiest to final shape if they are joined with polyester resin.

Buy, beg, borrow, or somehow obtain use of accurate gram scales and use them when selecting balsa. We will give suggested weights in each building step.

CONSTRUCTION: Using the top and root outlines shown, make cutting templates and cut cores from 1-lb styrofoam. Using a felt tip pen, draw stub spar, landing gear, and wheel locations on each panel. Using a straightedge and a sharp No.11 blade, remove foam from spar slots and gear plate location. A carefully trimmed 2-1/2 inch dia tin can can be used as a cookie cutter to make the wheel well outlines, approximately 1-1/4 inches deep. Remove foam using needle nose pliers and trim holes using a motor tool and flat grinding stones.

Install 1/4 x 1/2 x 12-inch hard balsa spars using epoxy (go easy on the epoxy!). Install plates using epoxy and sawdust to provide a bond between plate and spars. Wipe off all excess epoxy and trim parts flush when dry, using a sharp hobby plane. Do not sand this area, you will only succeed in making a flat spot on the wing.

Prepare balsa sheeting using 1/16 x 4 x 36-inch sheets which weigh less than 24 grams per sheet. I use 16-gram sheets if I can get them. If you plan on Monokoting the wing, use approximately 25-gram stock for safety reasons. Select and mark the heavier pieces for the left wing panel to offset engine weight..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Note main model pic is by Ron McCormick (showing Dave Brown at 1979 Lincoln Nebraska Nats with Tiporare model), and was found online on https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/classic-rc-pattern-flying-379/9843991-tiporare-illusion-photo-thread.html thread by ShinySteelRobot. Photo credit: Ron McCormick.

Update 12/05/2020: Added additional instructions file (from W-K Hobbies) thanks to RFJ.

Supplementary file notes

Article.
Instructions (Dick Hanson Models).
Instructions (WK Hobbies).

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Tiporare (oz12175) by Dick Hanson from Model Builder 1980 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz12175)
    Tiporare
    by Dick Hanson
    from Model Builder (ref:2801)
    February 1980 
    65in span
    IC R/C LowWing
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 05/05/2020
    Filesize: 506KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: JeffGreen

Tiporare (oz12175) by Dick Hanson from Model Builder 1980 - pic 003.jpg
003.jpg
Tiporare (oz12175) by Dick Hanson from Model Builder 1980 - pic 004.jpg
004.jpg

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User comments

Rescaling this plan at 86% you will obtain a Tiporare 40, complete build thread at:
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/classic-rc-pattern-flying-379/10788494-building-tiporare-40-a.html
pit - 12/05/2020
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  • Tiporare (oz12175)
  • Plan File Filesize: 506KB Filename: Tiporare_oz12175.pdf
  • Supplement Filesize: 3418KB Filename: Tiporare_oz12175_article.pdf
  • Supplement Filesize: 1125KB Filename: Tiporare_oz12175_instructions_DH.pdf
  • Supplement Filesize: 581KB Filename: Tiporare_oz12175_instructions_WK.pdf
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Notes

* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.

Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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