About this Plan
Tossette. Radio control hand-launch sailplane. Wingspan 58 in, wing area 345 sq in.
Quote: "Tossette, by Ed Depue. Here's an easy to build, lightweight hand-launched sailplane that is tailor-made for small fields and schoolyards. Construction is straightforward and basic. Performance is outstanding.
When l set out to design a small glider, I knew that I wanted an easy to build, lightweight, handlaunch-type sailplane to use in the nearby schoolyard for some fun flying. The Tossette has exceeded my goals by being not only fun to fly, riding up on the lightest of thermals, but proving itself to be a competitive flyer against other small sailplanes. It won the First Annual ISS WC Handlaunch Contest in June 1984, flying with a variety of very well-designed, and good-flying small gliders. The Tossette does very well on the slope also, staying aloft in breezes that are too light for gliders the size of the Wanderer (oz4100) and Gentle Lady (oz2359) to fly in, and yet still able to penetrate any strong breeze as the others do while being maneuverable and fun in a smaller space.
I kept the structure of the Tossette simple for ease and speed of construction, using carbon fiber to reinforce typically weak areas. If you plan to launch the Tossette from a standard high-start or a
winch, replace the inside wing panel balsa spars with the same size spruce spar material.
Using the 'low tech' method of airfoil development, I took an Eppler 205 outline and added undercamber to it and drooped the trailing edge some. It looked like it ought to work OK (I can hear the high tech plotter types groaning) and it does! I guess you can call this a very modified 205.
Cut the ribs, formers, fuselage sides, braces, etc., before you begin building. The wing, although undercambered, goes together quickly. Read through the building sequence before starting.
Begin with some 3/16 x 3/4-inch trailing edge material and shave it down to the 1/8 thickness shown on the plans, or you can simply shave some 1/8 sheet to shape. I use a Master Airscrew razor plane. This is an excellent little tool which makes an easy job of it. Cut the slots in the trailing edge 1/8-inch deep. For this cut, I used two fine-tooth hacksaw blades glued to-gether. The resulting slot is just the right size for the 1/6 ribs. Set the trailing edge aside for now. It goes on last. Read on.
Precut all 1/16 shear webs two inches in length (vertical grain), and a little taller than the final size. After you glue them in, you sand them to the exact size with a 4-1/2-inch piece of 1/4 x 1/2 spruce, with sandpaper glued to one edge.
Pin the right outer panel spar to the plan and glue the poly brace in position. Glue W3 against it, and then add the shear web between W3 and W4 location. Keep the back of each rib down on the plan as you proceed. Install and glue W4 and the next shear web, then W5, etc. on out to the tip. Glue the leading edge in place, then take a W2 rib and cut it into two pieces where the poly brace will in-tersect it. Remove a small amount of wood from each piece of the rib to allow for the thickness of the brace. Trial fit these pieces before gluing them in. Sand the shear webs and poly brace so the spar rests snug against all pieces. Add the top spar and turbulators now.
Lift the assembly from the plan and pin down the right inner panel spar in place. Carefully align the outer panel to the plan and spar. Prop it up to the correct height of 3-3/8-inches, measured at bottom spar and W7, and glue. Now, take all the W2 ribs and shear webs, and glue them down.
W1 ribs require 1/16 shims under the rear to allow for sheeting. Install 1/16 W1 rib, then fit and glue dihedral brace to spar and WI. Glue the leading edge on now. The 1/8 W1 center rib is treated the same as the W2 poly rib. Install the center rib, sand shear webs and plywood brace to fit spar..."
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Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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