Flying Porsche (oz12132)

About this Plan

Flying Porsche. Radio control novelty flying machine.

Note this is a low resolution plan.

Quote: "Gentlemen, Start Your Engines. Flying Porsche, by Bill Cooper. With photos and drawings by Art Johnson.

Okay. You've built five Ugly Stiks, three Hots, two P-51's and a J-3. Now you need something different; something no one else has; something easy to build and fun to fly. Well look no further! How about the ultimate radio controlled car? A racing car that actually flies.

The Flying Porsche was originally built for use by the Florida Air Show Team, one of the AMA sanctioned show teams building public relations for model aviation with the general public. If success is to be measured by crowd reaction,.then this new model is certainly a winner. Over the years, we have found that novelty flying machines such as the Flying Witch (RCM October 1980) and the Flying Doghouse are guaranteed crowd pleasers. Probably because the general public can relate to objects they can recoghize but that are not really supposed to fly. When we prove that with R/C model equipment, such objects can and do fly very well, it generates more interest in R/C and the fun one can have in this hobby.

The Flying Porsche is one more addition to the field of proven novelty flying machines. We have been flying two of these flying race cars in airshows over the last six months in simulated races at low level. Of course, the pilots can't resist a couple of loops and rolls after the race is over. The Flying Porsche is just as nimble as its large prototype, but it carries it over into a third dimension.

Now, before you run out and buy all the necessary materials to build this airplane (car), let me say that this is not a first model type of project. If you are switching from R/C model cars to the flying type, better get at least through the Ugly Stik stage of flying first. Yes, I did state earlier that it is easy to build and fly and it is, if you are past the initial stages as a sport flier.

The structure of the model is quite simple and I know that many of you will modify it somewhat depending on material availability. The structure as shown does work well and ends up as a bit classier looking car than when built entirely from foam and foam board. (Our show team members have built several in different ways.) If you do your own thing on construction, don't change the stab incidence or the CG (balance point), have built four of these cars and the set-up as shown is the best of the four. It will fly using rudders and elevator instead of elevons and with different airfoils, but do not decrease the aft fin area and do not let it get tail heavy. All of the models have needed lead forward in the fins to get the right balance and it is better to add weight than to try to fly with the CG back of the point shown.

The most important thing to keep in mind during construction is the distribution of weight so that the CG will remain as far forward as possible. This is the single most important factor in getting the car to fly well. In my car the battery is located in the leading edge and the fuel tank is off to the opposite side and as far forward as possible. The servos and other gear should be as far forward as you can get them and then add weight to achieve the final balance. I have an ounce of lead in the leading edge of each foam side and a two ounce spinner on my latest version.

CONSTRUCTION: The profile sides are cut from two pieces of common 3/4 x 1 x 4 in insulation type styrofoam glued together with Sigbond. After you have cut the two sides, you must notch the rear of each to accept the 1/4 in balsa sheet vertical stabilizers. Remember, you are building a right and a left panel. Each side must be cut accordingly. So far so-good. Now, sheet each panel entirely with 1/32 sheet balsa and then sand carefully. The sheeting will add considerable strength with very little additional weight..."

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