Trixie (oz12111)

 

Trixie (oz12111) by Adrian Britton 1999 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Trixie. Radio control sport parasol model, for either IC or electric power, with 2-3 channels.

Quote: "A page or two of light relief, as Adrian Britton describes the construction of his time-honoured three-function quickie.

I first built this model for my own fun and flying practice, being able to take it almost anywhere with me on my kit selling expeditions at shows and events around the country. Originally it was powered by a DC Dart .5 cc but when this broke its crankshaft, in went an original Mills .75, and it flew beautifully! In fact, so well that the model shops seemed to want kits of it. The design was developed, kits produced and it sold well for many years - you may remember it , or you may have even had one!

The electric version, with a 'Mini Olympus' up front, was called 'Whispering Trixie' and flew easily through the ten minute 'slots' at the shows, and became one of the best sellers of my range. For a long lime now I have been unable to produce kits on a commercial basis yet somehow it seemed wrong to let the designs just disappear. So, here's the compromise! Trixie and Whispering Trixie published in RCM&E as a free plan.

Most of the information for building the model is detailed on the drawing, so you'll not need an expanded explanation, nevertheless, I'll be a helpful as I can here to make things a little easier!

BUILDING: Cut and match up the two 3/32 fuselage sides from medium balsa. Plan your installations ahead and mark up the relative former positions before gluing the 1/4 x 1/8 to the insides. Fit formers 2 and F3 to one side, then accurately join with the other. Make sure that F1 is prepared with all drillings etc before fitting. Note that F1 on the electric version is from 1/8 liteply instead of 1/4 'regular' ply.

Join at the tail (symmetrically!) and fit the rear formers. The sides can then be moistened or steamed and cyano used to secure them to shape. The 1/8 liteply centre piece of the wing pylon must be accurately glued in place. Follow this by making and fitting the undercarriage.

Now is the best time to get the installation of your power system, tank / batteries, receiver, servos, switch and pusluods (or cables) installed and working (No! Don't start up the diesel!). The fuel tank area should be treated with fuel proofer or varnish before the tank is 'pressure tested' and permanently installed in the right position relative to the engine's carburettor. (Pressure testing a fuel tank before installation is quick, simple and could save you a whole heap of trouble. For newcomers to the hobby, or anyone else for that matter, here's what to do: Firstly, seal the tank's 'filler' and 'pressure' pipes. The easiest way to do this is to connect the two with a piece of fuel tubing. Connect another length of tubing to the clunk pipe, immerse the tank in a bowl of water and blow into the tank through the free end of the feed pipe. Any leaks will be immediately obvious from the resulting stream of bubbles that rise to the surface - Ed.)

A suitable aperture should be made in F2 to allow the battery pack to be inserted, Standard servos are fine if using anything above 1 cc power, although they might be a bit tight! Mini servos and light building are necessary for electric power. The rest of the installation can now be removed in order to complete the fuselage structure.

The soft 1/4 in sheet top and the 3/8 forward bottom sheeting should be added, the front top section being slotted 1/8 in to clear the pylon and glued well to it. The 1/8 balsa side pieces can then be added followed by the lower (rear) 3/32 sheeting. The wing platform should be made up as shown and glued strongly in position. Now make a nice job of sanding and shaping the fuselage.

The IC powered prototypes had the fuselages covered in tissue, doped, painted with car spray and fuel-proofed. Give the fuselage a couple of coats of sanding sealer rubbed clown first, then apply the tissue wet and use thinners to fix it. A couple of coats of dope should give you a smooth base for a neat spray job followed by your choice of fuel proofing. Fabricate the 3/32 balsa hatch and fit with tiny screws to little blocks in the fuselage. Cut away the cowl, complete its construction with scrap balsa but make allowance for plenty of airflow. On the prototype it was simply retained with a screw which passed into F1.

Trim was applied using strips of Solartrim attached before fuel proofing with the windscreen from a suitable pop bottle. Right then - NOW you can start the engine!

The wing is straightforward enough to build; the main ribs could be from 1/16 sheet for the electric version to save a tiny bit of weight. Avoiding warps is the main rule, so choose your trailing edge (or make it) carefully. The tail parts are also straightforward. Sand the elevators to a nice taper and hinge carefully with the minimum of air gap.

The wings and tail were covered with translucent Solarfilm, which seems to be lighter and easy to use. Tex type covering would be a little too heavy. Glue the tail parts firmly to the fuselage taking great care with the alignment. If al] is well, the C of G should be just ahead of the wing main spar. Small adjustments can be made by moving the wing forward or backward under its bands, Failing success with this, you will have to resort to ballast. Charge everything up, and chuck it beside you in the car.

FLYING: You can test glide Trixie like a free-flighter if you want, but if you have throttle fitted or the electric version, it is best to just fly it and trim it out when up. You should have no trouble learning to fly on your own with Trixie if you have free-flight experience, but don't over-control it. That said, it is of course highly inadvisable and far preferable to get some proper training. Trixie is quite strong enough for any aerobatics you can get her to do and is very rugged and cheap to fly. Enjoy, flying it and please do send your pies to the mag!"

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Trixie (oz12111) by Adrian Britton 1999 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz12111)
    Trixie
    by Adrian Britton
    from RCME
    October 1999 
    48in span
    IC R/C Parasol
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 09/04/2020
    Filesize: 318KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: RMC
    Downloads: 697

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Trixie (oz12111) by Adrian Britton 1999 - pic 006.jpg
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Scaling

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