Stampe SV.4 (oz12106)

About this Plan

Stampe SV4. Radio control scale model biplane.

Quote: "Stampe SV4B. A 59 in wingspan model for 4 function radio control and 48 to 75 engines. Designed by David Boddington. Built and described by Andy Ward and the second prototype built and flown by Peter Glasson.

When David Boddington mentioned to me at Old Warden that he had scaled up his Stampe SV4 (oz7818) by a factor of 1.5 times. but had no-one free to build a review model. I was immediately interested.

The Stampe is one of my favourite aeroplanes. I already fly a quarter scale example from the Stampe SV4B (oz11996) Precedent kit - incidentally finished in the same colour scheme as this one - so I was familiar with the excellent flying qualities of the Stampe. I offered my services to David, who in clue course sent his plans for me to start work in the model. This larger version of his 39 in span model has a wing span of 59 in and has full four function control. Recommended engine size is 48 to 75 four strokes.

The model is not difficult to build, and provided care is taken at all stages, the builder will be rewarded with an excellent flyer capable of all the manoeuvres of the full size Stampe.

It is time well spent just looking at the plans for a while before cutting wood and familiarising yourself with the assembly procedures.

Fuselage: Before cutting out any parts, please check that the engine bearers are spaced to suit your chosen engine, the fuel tank holes are the correct size for your intended tank. and that the servo bearers are spaced correctly for your servos.

The first task, as usual, was to make a kit of parts for the fuselage. Most parts like the fuselage sides and formers can be cut out now, but others like the front and rear decking can only be cut to size when they are required. I opted to model the two seat version of the Stampe with the open front cockpit, so an extra former was cut out to support the ply decking at the instrument panel position in the front cockpit.

The position of all the formers was marked onto the 1/8 in balsa fuselage sides and all formers had a vertical centre line drawn on them. The first step in the actual construction of the fuselage is to join the sides to formers F2, F3 and F5, over the plan view, ensuring the centre lines of the formers are in line and all is square. Formers F2 and F3 are drilled for the binding of the centre section struts and undercarriage before assembly. F1 can now be installed. I reinforced my joints here, using triangular section balsa behind F1 and 24hr epoxy. The engine bearers are now epoxied in place, again using 24 hr epoxy. Bring together the rear end of the fuselage and install the 1/4 in sq balsa spacer between the sides at the rear. Roll 1/64 (0.4mm) ply around the fuel tank (I used an 8 oz tank) and install in formers Fl and F2. The rear fuselage formers can now be added and the 1/4 in square cross pieces installed against these formers to prevent them bowing out of shape.

Install the 1/8 x 5/16 rear fuselage stringers now and the servo bearers at the correct spacing for your servos. I always drill mine at the time of RC installation for the servo screws, but you can drill them at this stage if preferred.

The tailwheel is glued onto the rear of the fuselage and reinforced with 0.8mm plywood. The wheel must fully castor of course. A portion of the sternpost has to be cut away to provide movement for the elevator horn.

Before tackling the centre section struts (I won't call them cabanes!) make up paper templates for all of the 0.4mm ply decking. Cut them from the ply and trim to fit with approximately 1/bin overlap onto the fuselage sides.

The centre section struts are then bent to shape. Accuracy is essential here as it will affect the 'sit' of the top wing if inaccuracies creep in. Using the jig assembled from the parts shown on the plan, and referring to the drawings, construct the strut assembly, binding all the joints with copper wire or fuse wire. I silver soldered all the wirework on my model, but soft soldering could be used so long as sound joints are made.

Incidentally: For years I was put off building anything at the very mention of silver soldering, until I finally had a go, using Dennis Tapstield's article in an issue of RCSA as guidance. I am now totally converted as I find it so quick and easy and now positively look for joints to silver solder whether they need it or not! Please have a go. You will not be disappointed and of course the finished joint is far stronger than soft soldering.

Using strong thread, bind the centre section struts to formers F2 and F3 ensuring that the top wing mounting plate sits level in all planes, the bindings are then covered in epoxy to finish off.

The 0.4mm ply deckings can now be fixed in place and the cockpit openings cut out with a sharp knife, smoothing with fine glasspaper.

The lower ply sheeting forward of the wing can now be installed and the fuselage is then completed by adding the side stringers, wing seat fairing sand cockpit floors if desired..."

Stampe, R/C Scale Aircraft, June/July 1973.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

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