Flying Quaker (oz12082)
About this Plan
Flying Quaker (Megows Gas Model). Free flight power model. For Brown Jr power, although as stated: "any other motor from 1/6 to 1/3 HP will do."
Note: originally released as the 'Megows Gas Model' this design became - almost immediately - better known as the 'Flying Quaker'. Megows themselves were calling it the Quaker in their own adverts of Feb 1937.
Quote: "The real sensation for 1937 in the gas-powered class. Definitely the best buy, not just because the price is much lower, but because of its sure performance. This 'Flying Quaker' has been designed to prove two things. First, that a model can be so engineered and designed that the average beginner can build and operate it without fussy details and delays. Second, that you can have 'big plane' performance without sacrificing 'big plane' appearance. Many exclusive features: fail-proof landing gear that absorbs the hardest knocks, fully adjustable rudder and semi-adjustable stabilizer. Easily dismantled and folded for transportation. Motor accessible and removable.
SPECIFICATIONS: Wingspan 7 ft. Chord 12 in. Wing Section Clark Y. Wt minus motor 3 lb 12 oz. Price with wood wheels, less motor $5.00 Postage 35c extra. With 4-1/2 inch M& M Airwheels add $3.75"
Note the plan has the date 5/26/36 written on it. The advertisment blurb is from MAN, Feb 1937.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 11/04/2020: Added kit instructions as a supplement PDF. This is just the text off the plan, typed up onto 3 sheets of A4.
Quote: "Megow's Gas Model, 1936.
This wonderful little ship is designed principally for the newcomer in gas model building and can easily be built by one who has had experience with rubber powered models. Plane may be powered with the Brown Jr Motor (the motor shown on this plan) or any other reliable motor of equal power. This model, using the materials called for, will weigh very close to five pounds, and the wing loading will be approximately 3/4 lb per square foot. This is ideal for flying. If it is desired to increase the wing span to 8 feet, it may be done by adding two extra rib spacings to each wing half. This will result in a somewhat slower flying model. The wing shown is very satisfactory and is recommended for the first model.
The plans furnished have been especially designed so as to enable the builder to work on as many different parts at one time as is convenient. In a few instances he will have to make his own full sized layouts, such as in the left half of the wing. The builder may start wherever he pleases. These plans are detailed enough to work from directly. The following notes are supplementary, and include suggestions in the methods of construction, etc.
The fuselage construction is conventional in every respect. Build one side at a time, and keep in mind that you will have to make one left side and one right side. As the struts at the rear are 1/4 in square, and the longerons are 3/8 in square, it will be necessary to take care when making the second fuselage side, that the struts are raised flush with the longerons. Simply remember that the struts must be flush with the outside of the fuselage frame, and everything will turn out all right. The bottom longerons will have to be steamed to the proper curve, and the top longerons cut and spliced to the correct angle before assembly.
After pinning the upper and lower longerons in place, cut the struts to the proper lengths and fit them into position. Use plenty of cement and drive a single straight pin into place, when making each joint. The nose sides are made of pine, and care must be taken to insure a good joining of the two different materials, using cement, pins and thread if necessary. In making and fitting the tail blocks, make sure that the top of the block is at zero incidence, as the stabilizer will later rest on it. Carefully fit in all of the remaining struts and diagonals, and give the finished side a good three hours to dry. Meanwhile start work on some other part of the plane.
After making the two fuselage sides, it will be necessary to fit in the cross struts. Block the sides onto the top view of the fuselage on the plan, upside down, so that the place where the wing will later rest is the only part actually touching the plan. Check the sides to see that they are at right angles to the plan. Now fit in all of the struts at the wing location. When the joints are dry, the nose and tail ends may be bent inwards. Be a little careful at the nose as it may be necessary to do a little steaming there. String or wire may be used to keep the frame from springing apart until all of the joints are dry. The advantage of doing this upside down is that the top will be true enough for the wing to rest on, which is very important in models of this type.
The stringers made of very hard balsa may now be attached, and the battery tracks securely cemented and tied in place.
Construction of the wing is simple. Before starting, select the best grade of wood available. Be sure that it is straight. If you have a circular saw, you can bevel the leading and trailing edges quickly and efficiently. However, a plane will do very nicely. Start construction by laying down the trailing edge. Lay the bottom center spars in place, and temporarily set the ribs in place to see how they fit. Now pin the spars down to the board. The ribs may then be removed, cement applied to the various surfaces and then replaced. Use pins to hold the ribs vertically, until the cement sets. Now apply cement to the top notches of the ribs, and fit the top spar into place. The leading edge is then put into position. At the points where the bottom spars curve upwards, it will be necessary to moisten them before blocking them up. The reed tip outline must be thoroughly moistened before bending into position.
The left wing is made in the same manner. It will be necessary to make a tracing of the wing shown, and turn the tracing upside down. Do be extra careful that you don't build two wing halves and find they are both for the same side.
Getting the dihedral angle into the wing is a slightly delicate task, but isn't at all complicated. Butt join the ends of the spars and cement them securely, after having carefully blocked wethe wing tips to the correct dihedral angle, and carefully checked the wings, for trueness in the case of the right wing and for 'wash' in the left. Filler blocks of some hard wood are cut to shape as shown and cemented in the 'V' of the dihedral at each spar, including leading and trailing edges. When completely dry, the wing frame may be lifted up, and the bottom of the center section is trimmed flat as shown. Tape is wound around each splice as an extra precaution.
The tail surfaces have a streamlined section, and the following method of construction is easy to follow - and will result in surfaces that are without undesirable warps or curves.
Lay down 1/8 x 1/4 in balsa in position where the ribs are located, fastening them in place with pins near the spars and cement the spars in place. Now cut a number of pieces of wood 1/8 thick and place them under the raised ends of each rib. This will give the ribs the proper contour. Now cement and pin the upper ribs into position. Trim the ends right to the line on the plan. The leading edges are then butted against the ribs and the outlines moistened and curved into place. Braces are applied later.
Some notes on the mounting of the tail follow. At the extreme end of the fuselage is a bolt, anchored as shown on the plan. This also holds the stabilizer. The front of the stabilizer is held down by the arrangement shown on the plan. It is solidly anchored by the yoke which passes under the longerons. The two bolts also hold the rudder traveller arm. The rudder is clamped at the front, to this. It rests on the rear bolt which acts as the pivot. The two guy wires hold the rudder in a vertical position. Trim all bolts to the necessary lengths.
The landing gear frame is made in one piece of 1/8 diameter steel music wire. You will need 50 inches. Bend it to shape so that the splice or joint will be at the front, as shown on the plan. Solder will not readily join music wire. First heat the ends of the wire and flatten them with a hammer. Use light wire, and securely bind the joint as shown. The joint may now be soldered, and when cooled, cannot be pulled apart. The streamlined struts of pine are solely to keep the landing gear from buckling under impact. Shock is absorbed at the axle which will slide up the rear strut if necessary, and by the shock chords, inside the fuselage. Air wheels if used, will improve the landing qualities. The wheels are retained by cotter pins in the ends of the axles.
COVERING AND DECORATING:
Either bamboo paper or silk may be used for covering. Bamboo paper is easier to apply, however, and is the covering recommended for this model. Apply the covering smoothly, using cement for adhesive. In the fuselage it is best to cover the windows with celluloid first before applying paper to the rest of the body. After all of the parts have been carefully covered, give them all a spray of water. This will shrink the covering to a drum tight surface. The wings however, will have to be blocked as a precaution that they will not Warp. Make sure that the 'wash' in the wings is on the correct side.
For coloring the model select some 'loud' color which will be visible at a distance. The original model from which these plans are taken had red wings and tail, with blue scallops. A pleasing combination naturally de-pends on the originallity of the model builder. Use ordinary colored dope as the first coat, and when dry, lightly sand it to remove any roughness on the paper surface. For the second and third coats, use dope thinned about 30 to 40%. A final coat of thinner alone will result in a very high luster. When dry, decorations may be applied.
If you are using the Brown Jr Motor the propeller shown should be used, otherwise use the propeller recommended by the engine manufacturer.
Check your model for completeness, and balance. It should balance 1/3rd from the leading edge of the wing with wing and battery settings shown. Adjustments can be made by sliding battery. For flying, tie a 30 foot piece of light strong string to the tail of the model. This string has been found to be one of the best methods of determining the flying qualities of a model. After revving up the motor to its best running speed, allow the model to taxi along the ground, holding onto the string. Excellent control is obtainable in this way. The model can be guided into the wind, and if any tendency to bank, stall, etc, shows itself, the model can be made to settle to the ground, merely by the runner slowing down and holding back on the string. A few trials of this sort will determine if the model is properly adjusted for flight, and the next time, the runner operator can let go of the string altogether, once the model has reached a suitable height and it is reasonably certain that it will not meet any obstacles. Keep the model away from telephone poles, trees and houses!
Megow's Model Airplane Shop will be glad to hear from you, if you have any difficulty with this model, and will appreciate reports and pictures of your finished model."
Supplementary file notes
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User commentsHi, I have nice old photo for the plan page of this one, it shows a pre war Dutch build version of the Megows Gas Model [main pic]. The engine looks to be a German Kratmo 10. Regards,
Joost - 11/04/2020
Excellent photo. Many thanks.
SteveWMD - 11/04/2020
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