Flyaway (oz1203)

About this Plan

Flyaway. Free flight power cabin model.

Quote: "Flyaway, by Pete Bowers. This 6 foot semiscale job shows the West Coast trend for realism. Clean design gives performance without ungainly pylon.

IT has long been the author's contention that contest models can be built that will actually resemble real planes, and not some spidery nightmare. To achieve this end, some six years of experience in the design and flying of contest gas models was applied, together with an even longer experience in the designing of flying scale and semiscale models. The result is a sleek-looking, semiscale type that has been carefully proportioned for the best aerodynamic efficiency.

FUSELAGE: Cut all formers ; then cement the Iowier longeron into the notch at the rear of the curved balsa keel. Next, attach formers two and four in their proper positions, and fit the wing seat in between them. Add former three, and when it has dried in place, add the side longerons. Trim them square with the bottom keel piece, and mount the fuselage upright on your work board. Add the remaining formers in their proper places. Notice that the side longerons end at former eleven, but that the upper and lower ones continue to the rudder post, which is former twelve. Add the rudder and stabilizer spars, and last of all, the first former. When these are in place, start the covering of the fuselage with sheet balsa or bass. The rudder should be completely assembled before the rear portion of the fuselage is covered, as the wood covering fairs into the upper and lower parts of the fin for streamlining.

The ribs for the rudder and stabilizer are slipped onto the spar, and then the curved balsa tips, cemented to the leading and trailing edges, are fastened in place, and the ribs brought into proper position against them. Note the fill between the number one stabilizer rib and the side of the fuselage to provide a base for application of covering material. A small block, above and below the stabilizer spar on former eleven, will add to the rigidity of the surface.

The motor mounts on the original ships were bent from 1/16 in Dural, 24ST, but due to the shortage of this material, an alternate plywood mount is shown. Practically any good Class C engine can be used, although the Bunch is recommended.

WINGS : The wing is built in quarters, starting with the .rear portion of each panel. Cut all ribs and spars and begin assembly by cementing the tip bow and center-section cutout bow to the trailing edge. After this has been done, insert and cement rib C in place, adding the others after the cement has dried. After all rear rib sections are in place, add the innermost and outerinost of the tip ribs, and between them cement the leading edge. When this has set, add the remaining ribs and the inner leading-edge bow. The wing is now ready for the top and bottom surfaces of the box spar. Leave the lower inner portion, uncovered until after assembly of the two wing halves.

The two wing halves are propped up to the proper dihedral angle. The main spar splice is made by the addition of two plywood strips, one on each side of the spar. A piece of 1 x 1/4 in balsa makes the trailing-edge joint, and a large piece of 1/8 sheet, backed by a piece of 1 x 1/4 in, makes the leading-edge joint.

COVERING : The original ship was covered with silk, but other material must be used at present."

Supplementary file notes

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