Miss Stik Jr (oz11951)
About this Plan
Miss Stik Jr. Radio control sport model for electric power. Wingspan 40 in, wing area 212 sq in. For direct drive 280 - 300 motor.
Quote: "Miss Stik Junior. Direct Drive 280 Sized 'Confined Space Flyer'.
The Miss Stik Junior is a direct drive Speed 280/300 sport model. Built mostly from stick wood, a few laser cut plywood parts are included to speed construction. The model builds to 7 - 10 oz depending on batteries and radio equipment selected. To achieve best performance, the smallest and lightest components should be used. FMA M-5 and PS-30 or Hi-Tec Electron-6 and HS-55 servos or equivalent are recommended.
General Building Notes: The Miss Stik Junior is a natural for Cyanoacrylate glues (Ca), however many people are allergic to them. Ambroid, Duco, or aliphatic resin (carpenter's glue) are just as suitable if you're not in a hurry.
Generally, cut your longest pieces from the stick stock provided first. Then move on to the shorter pieces. Cut long pieces for the fuselage, wing, and tail before doing any assembly work. This assures that no splices will be needed. Epoxy is not required on any structure including the motor mount plate or joining the wing panels. However, if Ca glue is used for these joints we recommend the gap filling type (Ca+).
We strongly recommend the use of light weight plastic covering material to finish the model. It will enhance the strength of the model, adds very little weight, and is easily repaired.
Wing Construction: The wing for the Miss Stik Junior is constructed in three pieces. A left and right hand outer wing panel joined at a 15 degree dihedral angle to a center wing panel.
Begin construction with the center panel. Cover the plan with wax paper or plastic wrap to keep parts from sticking to it. Cut the 1/8 x 1/4 leading and trailing edge to length from stock and pin in place on the plan. Note that the trailing edge lies flat while the leading edge is pinned on its edge.
Cut the 1/8 x 1/8 lower rib caps to fit between the leading and trailing edges and glue in place. Also add the outboard 1/8 x 1/4 lower rib caps. Cut the 1/8 x 3/8 spar from stock and glue in place on the lower rib caps.
The 1/8 x 1/8 upper rib caps are added next. Note that these upper caps are offset from the lower caps. Cut the upper rib caps slightly over length from stock (about 6 in long). Bevel one end to fit against the leading edge. Hold the rib cap in place against the leading edge and mark it where it contacts the spar. Gently crack the rib cap at the spar location as shown on the plan. Trim the rib cap to fit at the trailing edge then glue it in place. Be sure to elevate the rib caps to align with the top of the leading edge as shown on the plan side views when gluing them in place.
Add the 1/8 x 1/4 outboard upper rib caps. These are located directly above the lower caps and must have their aft end beveled so that the finished rib will match the thickness of the trailing edge. Add a piece of 1/8 x 1/4 to the top of the spar at the center of the panel to help support the rubber band wing attachment.
Cut pieces of 1/8 x 1/8 stock to fit on top of the spar and between the remaining upper rib caps then glue them in place. These will help to support the covering material.
Remove the wing panel from your work surface. Sand the leading and trailing edges to shape as shown on the plan side views.
The outer wing panels are built in similar fashion as the center panel.
Start by pinning the leading and trailing edges to the plan. The trailing edge is made up of two pieces of 1/8 x 1/8 stock. Pin the first piece in place then follow with the second, gluing it in place against the first piece. The leading edge is a piece of 1/8 x 1/4 stock pinned on it's edge as with the center panel. Allow the leading and trailing edges to extend slightly beyond the wing tip location..."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Note there is an old E-zone review from 2006 by Albert Warhaftig of the Miss Stik Junior kit, on RCGroups at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho... which is interesting and includes some good (if small and blurry) build pics.
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