Skeeter (oz11802)

About this Plan

Skeeter. Radio control sport model, for 10-15 diesel engines.

Quote: "Skeeter by Sid King - 46 in span 'functional sport model' from January 1994 Radio Modeller. I'm sure I've seen this one before somewhere, not to mention other models called Skeeter... It was craftily crammed onto a single side of the plan by omitting a built up wing and suggesting foam/veneer."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "RM Plan Feature. A quick-to-build, cheap-to-fly 46 in span sportster for 10 to 15 engines. Skeeter, by Sid King.

In 1966 I purchased one of Ed Johnson's radios; it set me back £160 at a time when the average weekly wage was around £25 - compare that with today's prices! Ed's advice at the time was 'never put a new radio into your favourite aeroplane'. Since that time I have always maintained a hack flying test bed. My current 14 year old hack ended its life in spectacular fashion recently, not ironically due to any fault in the radio being exercised but to one of the original 14 year old servos giving up the ghost.

This left me casting around for something quick and simple to fill the gap in my stock of models. At 8.30pm on a wet Saturday evening. The first sketches were laid on the drawing board, by 8.30pm the following evening Skeeter was built, tissued and doped, ready for motor and radio installations. I make no claim for originality in the matter of fuselage construction: over the years I have watched my good friend Peter Van Doesburgh flying several variations of a Dutch design called 'Twizzle Stick', ranging from 40 four-stroke models to electric powered variants. For the task envisaged the prospect of having a fuselage totally replaceable in one evening was a definite plus and I had wanted to try the construction method anyway.

Another factor, which decided the size, was that I had an unused MVVS 2cc Junior diesel which I was also keen to try out. This has proved to be a superb motor, once the initial problem of keeping the prop on whilst starting was solved! As sold, the prop is retained by a normal 5mm slotted bolt, screwing into a matching female thread in the shaft (ie, the reverse of the normal fitting). As the motor came up against the quite considerable compression, it all too frequently unscrewed the retaining bolt. The problem was solved by screwing a piece of 5mm studding into the shaft with thread locking compound and retaining the prop with a normal 5mm nut and washer.

As a confirmed large model enthusiast, I took Skeeter to its first public showing fully expecting howls of derision. In the event the response was quite the opposite and I was sent home to prepare proper drawings. Now I know from experience that Cotswold club members aren't that polite, I was obviously onto a winner! The flying performance is all that one could reasonably expect from a rudder/elevator model, plus a few tricks that would fool the casual observer into thinking it had ailerons.

I have since considered building an aileron wing, and rejected the idea as being totally unnecessary. Skeeter's flight envelope consists of loops, rolls, inverted spins and stall turns all on an egg cup full of diesel fuel. Its reversible undercarriage gives good ground characteristics on both grass and tarmac, whilst, for rough pasture, the undercarriage can be removed for hand launching - but do check for CG movement. I would not advocate Skeeter as a trainer, the performance being quite spirited. Rather the model should be viewed as a holiday knock about or fun machine, supplementary to one's mainstream interest.

Adhesives: By switching from one component to another, and thus staggering gluing and drying times, the 24hr build time was achieved using PVA white glue (Flair Whiteset). 5 min epoxy was used only for the engine bearers and joining the wing halves. No cyano was used in the construction.

Construction: Although the builder will probably switch from one major component to another for maximum efficiency I will deal with each section individually - so in no particular order:

Fuselage: As is evident from the plan 3mm Liteply (available from any Flair stockist) is used extensively to give a rigid and light structure. Should this be unobtainable, 1/8 med balsa may be substituted. Firstly cut the sides as a pair, pin back and add the doublers, using small clamps or bulldog clips. Drill wing dowel holes and cut rear undercarriage block recess. Whilst still clamped together add the main crutch members, hold in place with more clamps, ensuring accurate alignment of rear end. Separate fuselage halves when dry.

Assemble the halves over the plan view using F1 and the rear facing pieces to ensure the box section remains square. When this box is dry, draw in the rear of the crutch, add cross members and braces followed by the front facings. Add the beech motor mounts (using 5 min epoxy) and the undercarriage blocks with the 12swg brass tubes inserted. Note that the front block is 6mm shorter than the rear – this allows it to fit inside the sides, whilst the longer rear block is flush with the outer surface. All that now remains is to add the 0.8mm ply floor, hatch supports and hatch and the fuselage is complete.

Tailplane and fin: All components except the elevator joiner and 0.44mm ply facings on the rudder are cut from 3/16in balsa. Assemble and glue all components on a flat surface protected with polythene sheet, only spot tacking the moving components to the fixed surface.

Sand to section when dry. The elevator and rudder can now be removed and their respective leading edges chamfered to allow free movement. Add ply reinforcement to bottom of rudder.

Place the elevator and rudder to one side and glue the fin to the tailplane; ensure it is vertical and add the triangular fillets. This sub-assembly is now ready to add to the fuselage at this point. Decide upon fixed tail skid or steerable tail wheel assembly and add as appropriate.

Wing: The wing follows conventional foam wing practice. Commence by gluing the leading and trail edges in place with PVA holding them in place with strips of Sellotape until dry. When dry, lay one half of the wing flat on a board and offer the second half to it. Prop up the second wing tip 3ins to give the required 1-1/2in dihedral under each tip. Check the fit at the root, adjusting as required. When satisfied, join the halves with 5 min epoxy. Complete the wing by adding the 3in glass tape with polyester resin. Be warned that polyester resin will attack bare polyester foam so ensure that all gaps are sealed first..."

Supplementary file notes

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