Morane Saulnier MS 325 (oz11782)

About this Plan

Morane Saulnier MS 325. Rubber scale model of the 1930s French prototype fighter.

Quote: "Model of the Morane-Saulnier, by Paul Lindberg, Model editor and model designer for Popular Aviation.

With the warm weather here, naturally we want to be outdoors with our flying scale models. You will learn that the design of this model is drawn not only to obtain an exact scale model but a remarkable flyer as well, due to its extremely light method of construction.

Our laboratory tests of this model are outstanding. Many flights of over eight hundred feet are on record.

COLOR SCHEME: Fuselage, natural white; cowl and head rest, stiff paper, painted silver; wings, wing struts, elevator and rudder are also natural white tissue; landing gears, radiator, oil coolers and wing fillets, silver. Details, black and silver with exception of the French insignias, which are clearly described on plan.

CONSTRUCTION OF FUSELAGE: First, place waxed paper on top of plan to prevent parts from sticking to plan. The fuselage sides are built from 1-16-inch square balsa. The longerons, verticals, diagonal braces, etc, are held in place until securely cemented by inserting straight pins on either side of strips wherever needed. When the two sides are completed, the cross-members are cemented into their proper locations. Check carefully front to rear for alignment.

Cut the formers from 1/32-inch sheet balsa and cement in their respective positions as shown on the plan. The position of all stringers are clearly shown on the formers. See plan. Work stringers from front to rear and check carefully to see that they have the correct spacing. Stiff paper is used in covering the front part of cowl back to and including pilot's cockpit.

Four pieces of stiff paper are required between nose block and formers F-1 and F-8. A separate piece is used from F-1 to F-2, also from F-2 to F-3. Cylinder head fairings are clearly explained on plan.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE WINGS: Cut all ribs from 1/32- inch balsa. Pin the spar in position on the plan Now, cement ribs in their proper locations. The leading and trailing edges are cut and sanded to shape and ce-mented to the ribs. The panels carry movable ailerons which are a great help in controlling the flights. Make wing tips from 1/16-inch thick balsa. We highly approve of this type of wing tip, because it is much easier to construct and neater in appearance.

ELEVATOR AND RUDDER: These are built from 1/16-inch square and flat balsa, and are constructed on the plan. Their construction is very simple, therefore no difficulty should be encountered here.

FILLETS: We have eliminated carving or balsa wing fillets and have used in place stiff paper wing fillets A full size template is shown on plan.

LANDING GEAR: Built from 1/8-inch flat sheet balsa. A little patience is required here to carve and sand landing to proper shape.

OIL COOLER AND RADIATOR: Build these up as shown on plan. There are two oil coolers on front bottom side of fuselage.

WING STRUTS: After wing struts have been built, carve and sand either end of strut so they will fit perfectly over rib D and against cowl.

COVERING THE MODEL Apply tissue to the various framework members, using a light grade of model airplane dope to fasten it to the outer edges. Stretch tissue as tightly as possible to remove all wrinkles. When edges have dried, apply coat of water to tissue. When all water has dried completely, tissue will become taut. May we suggest that you pin wings, elevator and such up a flat surface to keep from warping.

ASSEMBLY: 1/8-inch by 1/4-inch wing braces are cemented to lower longerons to receive wing panels. Insert pins in braces to hold wings in position. The stiff paper wing fillets can now be ce-mented in position. Cut tissue along top longerons at rear of fuselage and fold flap up so elevator can be cemented in position. The tissue flap is now doped to top side of elevator. Cut tissue away from either side of rear section of fuselage to permit the installation of new rubber motors; also the winding of rubber motor from rear with a mechanical winder. Landing gears and other small details can now be assembled to the model. Always remember, the details add to the appearance of the model.

TESTING AND FLYING: With the rubber motor and flying propeller in place, gently launch your model over tall grass, to see whether it is properly balanced. If model glides a short distance, and nose rises abruptly, it will be necessary to add weight to bottom of nose block. After the model is balanced to glide at an even angle, you are ready to test your model under power.

In making the test flight, the principal thing to avoid is damage to your model. Gliding and flying it over tall weeds is the safest because the weeds or tall grass break the fall gently in case that the model should stall or dive. Next, look out for any solid obstructions like trees, stumps, posts or buildings, because it appears to be the tendency of every new model to attempt suicide. Be careful at the beginning for a moment's carelessness may undo days of work.

A few trial flights will acquaint you with the ship, and all other adjustments can be made through the adjustable control surfaces."

Supplementary file notes

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