Gee Bee Model Z (oz11731)
About this Plan
Gee Bee Super Sportster Model Z. Radio control scale model. Wingspan 71.5 in, for Webra .90 engine.
Scale is 1/4.
Note this is the plan scan as posted by Marcdeklerk on Aerofred site at https://aerofred.com/details.php?image_id=102360 but this version here has been cleaned up to remove all the background noise. The file size is now smaller, and it's much easier to read.
Note there is a good build thread by John Boren at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3018148-Henry-Haffke-1-4-Scale-Gee-Bee-R-1-Build which has some excellent photos of the model under construction and detailed notes.
Note the above thread in turn links to a free download of a CAD re-designed wing plan, also by John Boren, available at http://johnboren.com/html/gee_bee_r1.html
Update 20/11/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
Quote: "THE BACKGROUND and history of the full-size and my model Super Sportsters were presented last month. Now, we're ready for construction. Before beginning, remember one very important fact: the model should be kept as light as possible. With its short moments, you could find it very tricky to fly if the wing loading gets too high. At 12-1/2 lb, it's a very stable flier - very positive on the controls, without any over-sensitivity. With care, your model can be built even lighter than my prototype. The bulky fuselage has a lot of material in it, so use lightweight wood where practical. This can add up to a substantial weight savings when the model is finished. Remember that weight and torque are the two big enemies of this aircraft.
Fuselage: Cut the sides from 1/8 x 6 inch balsa sheet, or you can edge-glue two 3 in sheets together. Cut the forward doublers from 1/8 ply, and laminate these to the sides. In the bottom view, note that the ply doublers extend 1/4 in forward of the balsa sides and that they are on the out-side of the structure. When this has dried, the firewall can be epoxied in place. The full-ply bulkhead, F-1, is also glued in place at this time. Clamp the tail end together, and make sure that everything is square while the glue sets. Triangle stock can be used behind the firewall to further strengthen this joint.
When the glue has properly cured, the remaining fuselage formers can be added, making sure that they are all square to the structure. Add the top, center stringer to the forward section of the fuselage. Also add the top turtledeck stringer. The fuselage aft end can be glued using a wedge to fit the joint. Add the side stringer from F-3 to the aft end. The 1/2 in balsa F-1 formers are now added to the forward end. Make sure that these are clamped tightly to the ply F-1 until the glue dries.
At this time the engine should be mounted to the firewall and the fuel tank can be mounted where shown on the drawings. I would strongly suggest that you use a .90 glow engine as I did. The engine should be mounted on an Edson mount, using an Edson thrust wedge behind it..."
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