Live Wire (oz11670)
About this Plan
Live Wire. Radio control electric stunter.
Quote: "Sparks fly with Jason Carroll's 59 in electric stunter. Live Wire.
FROM the outset, Live Wire was designed to be aerobatic, yet it had to be easy to fly and with a good glide performance. In this last respect it would make an excellent aileron trainer, and a quiet one too!
There is no need for expensive motors or mini radio. Indeed, the prototype flies extremely well with a Graupner Speed 600 motor and an 8 x 4.5 folding prop, costing in all no more than £14 or so. As for nicads, I strongly recommend Sanyo SCR cells. Performance otherwise may be disappointing.
So - if smooth, silent aerobatics take your fancy, let's get cracking!
First the fuselage: Select two firm sheets of similar-grade 1/8 balsa for the fuselage sides. Spot glue the sheets together and cut them as one, to give identical components. Now draw onto the sides (one left, one right!) the position of formers and floor support rails. Next glue the 1/2 in and 3/8 in triangular lengths to each side.
Formers F2 to F5 are cut from Lite-Ply. Cut F1 from birch ply, for this has to take the weight and torque of the motor. Glue F2 and F3 in position on one side using a set-square to ensure accuracy. F4 and F5 are next. Note the angles on the top, plan view.
Add wing seat doublers and 3/16 rails, followed by the elevator snake 'outer'. At this stage you may wish to fit a second snake tube for the receiver aerial.
Now glue the sides together at F2 and F3, trapping the Lite-Ply sheet floor between them. Don't forget this, as it will be impossible to fit later. Fix F1 in place with plenty of adhesive; pull the fuselage in at the nose, check for accuracy and hold together with clamps or rubber bands until the glue is dry. Now join the fuselage at the tail, gluing F4 and F5. Top and bottom fuselage sheeting is fitted with the grain running lengthways. Add the 1/8 sheet tailplane seat.
This is the time to transform the box in front of you into a smooth, sleek fuselage. The cross-sections on the plan show how. Templates will help. Be careful to not remove too much balsa as this will weaken the structure.
Face F1 with 1/8 sheet and F2 with the 1/32 ply wing peg support. Don't omit these as much strength is added. Now fit the wing seat LE spacers.
The top hatch and nicad bay hatch are cut away as shown on the plan. The latter is retained by two ply tabs and screws; ply plates in the fuselage will allow threads to be cut. The result is easy access, allowing you to change packs very swiftly indeed. Finally, glue the wing bolt shear plate under the wing seating. The holes for the nuts will be drilled later..."
Livewire, RCM&E, August 1991.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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