Messerschmitt Me110 (oz11644)
About this Plan
Me 110. Radio control sport-scale twin model German WWII fighter, for PSS or electric with 2 x Speed 400 motors. Wingspan 1180 mm.
Quote: "This month's free plan uses a glass fibre fuselage made on a 'lost foam' mould - something different to try! Messerschmitt Me110, by Paul Janssens.
The Me-110 was one of the aircraft the Luftwaffe started the Second World War with, and it logged many successes in the first years of that war. But as allied fighters became better the Me-110 was outclassed, and changed from a daylight troop-support to night fighter.
I'd been thinking about a combined PSS and electric model for some time, but couldn't make up my mind about what type of aircraft to build. Finally, I chose the Me-110 because of its simple to build airframe, the twin fins sticking into the prop wash for better stability, and its low drag.
From the first flight on the model showed excellent handling. This Me-100 flies fast and is aerobatic, but still averages 11 minutes of flight with an eight cell 1900 mAmp battery pack. On the slope the model becomes much lighter, and becomes an easy to fly aerobatic model that can stay airborne in very weak lift.
Build: Construction is fairly simple. with foam-veneer wing, and a glassfibre fuselage, made on a lost mould. So let's get to work, starting of with the glassfibre parts first.
Make the templates from light cardboard or thick drawing paper, old cornflake boxes do the job very well. Make the following templates twice:
Fuselage top view (see top view drawing).
Fuselage side view.
Engine nacelle top view.
...and make one engine nacelle side view of each template. Use blue foam or white foam of 25 Kg/m3 density. Lighter foam, such as ordinary white foam is too soft to help sanding. Use pins to fix the top views on either side of a foam block, and cut with the hot wire.
Remove the top view templates, fix the side view templates into position and cut again. The fuselage is now correct in two dimensions. Add the third dimension by sanding with a 150 grit sandpaper, and when you are satisfied with the shape, smoothen with a 600 grit. Repeat the process for the engine nacelles, but try to keep the piece of foam that will be cut away for the wing. If you stick this back into place you will be able to sand the nacelles to shape without breaking the top part off. After sanding you can throw the wing-piece away.
Cover all foam parts in brown packaging-tape, and use a warm iron to smoothen, just like you would when working with solarfilm. Make sure there are no gaps through which resin might be able to get to the foam, as this would ruin the work. Apply a coat of de-moulding wax, and cover the mould with resin and two layers of glassfibre tissue 160 Gr/m2, and a top layer of 80 Gr/m2. Let this cure for an hour, then add a layer of a thick mixture of resin and microhallons. I prefer to work with polyester resin, as this is less costly, and it hardens quicker.
After curing the edges can be trimmed off, and you can sand the microballons to a smooth surface with a 150 grit sandpaper. Make sure not to sand into the glassfibre, as this will weaken the airframe. If you can't get a smooth surface, add another, thicker layer of microballons to work with.
Smoothen with a 600 grit sandpaper and water. Cut some of the tape away and dissolve the foam with acetone. Then pull the tape and the foam residue out.
The wing is a classic foam-veneer job. Cut the core from dense foam, and cut the slot for the engines. Install the copper wires for the engines. and cover the wings with veneer or 0.5 mm balsa. Glue the balsa leading edges and wing tips into place and sand to shape. Use hard balsa for the ailerons. Join the wings and check for the correct dihedral, and reinforce the joint with a layer of glassfibre. Install the aileron torque tubes, and cover the gaps with scrap balsa, sand smooth. Glue W1 into place and drill the hole for the hardwood dowel and glue into place as well. The balsa block on top of the wing, just ahead of the servo, is to prevent the battery pack from falling down upon landing, and thus damaging the aileron servo. Glue F3 into place. Glue F1 and F2 into the fuselage..."
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