Hawker Typhoon 1B (oz11612)

 

Hawker Typhoon 1B (oz11612) by HJ Towner 1945 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Hawker Typhoon 1B. Rubber scale model WWII fighter, from Astral.

Quote: "Flying scale model of the Hawker Typhoon 1B (2,200 hp Napier Sabre motor). Max speed 400 mph. Wingspan 28 in. Specially designed for both hard and soft woods, giving maximum strength for lowest weight. By HJ Towner. Traced by G Holindale."

Scan from DBHL.

ref DBHL-5796.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 25/2/2022: Replaced this plan with a clearer version, scanned from original at 600 dpi, thanks to GuyColeman.

Update 25/2/2022: Added kit instructions, thanks to GuyColeman.

Quote: "Instructions: The present series known as MK II have been specially developed and tested in the Astral Research Dept, and flown under all sorts of weather conditions and have proved themselves capable of standing up to a lot of rough usage.

Owing to war-time restriction of Balsa wood, these designs have been developed in order to make a satisfactory model of the harder and heavier woods available. If these instructions are carefully carried out the all-up weight of the completed model should not exceed that of the usual balsa type.

The MK II type ribs and formers are actually lighter than the same sizes made in the usual type of balsa method, with a considerable increase in strength.

In order to still further reduce the weight and improve performance, the so called built-in jig method of building upon a substantial keel has been abandoned. This may entail a little more care on the builder's part in the early stages of assembly, but time well spent here will be handsomely repaid in the final performance.

It will be seen that the ribs and formers are built of strip wood 3/64 x 1/16 and suitably bent to form the necessary curves. The bending is done by notching or indenting the 1/16 face of the strip with the thumbnail and gently curving the wood at the same time, so that the notches are on the inside of the curve. If this is done gently and stage by stage, getting a sharper curve on successive stages no crack need occur. Try a sample piece of wood first. It is not necessary to steam or soak the wood, but the wood should not exceed the 3/64 thickness for good results. Sand it to size if necessary.

Where the curve is excessive for this construction a cut-out piece is used such as the top and bottom of curved formers. This top and bottom is pinned to the drawing using greaseproof or thin tissue paper between (to save the plan), and the curved strips pinned into position. Let these strips extend an inch or so beyond their actual length which can be cut off and trimmed when the cement is set.

The cross pieces or braces are now added, cutting the ends to suit the correct angle and making everything a good fit. Put a spot of cement on both faces to be cemented together and it is as well to lightly smear a thin layer of cement on the side of the curve that is notched.

The two basic stringers are now prepared leaving them a little longer than necessary and giving them a gentle curve to coincide with the outline on the plan.

The position of the formers are carefully marked on each Basic Stringer and at the same time the position of the stringer can be marked on the formers.

Lay one basic stringer on the side view of the drawing, concave side up, and either pin or hold in place with weights, whilst the two or three formers which are located more or less on the straight part of the basic stringer are carefully cemented into place on their sides. These should be checked with a set square or supported with small blocks of wood or even held between the pages of a partly opened book standing upright.

When fairly set the other basic stringer can be laid on the top and cemented in position, held in place with pins, preferably of the thin steel type with porcelain heads. These pins can be pressed right through the wood without splitting or weakening in any way. The ordinary pin is generally too thick. Care should be taken to see that the stringer that is now on top aligns with the stringer below and is best checked by using a set square pressed against the lower one when the vertical edge should just touch the upper stringer at all stations.

When set the front former can be added and also the stern post and the remaining formers inserted. Add remaining stringers and if they do not flow in a true curve little chips of wood can be inserted between it and the offending formers.

The centre section main spar is now added and must be square with the fuselage, make sure it makes a firm join on its correct cross piece on the former concerned and that it is the correct side of the former that the drawing calls for.

Complete each wing panel outline by pinning to plan and add ribs - one right hand and one left hand.

Measure the distance between each wing tip and the stern post to ensure the wings being square with the fuselage, and make certain that the same amount of underside of each wing is visible when viewed from the front.

It is advantageous to plank the front half of the fuselage up to about the windscreen with. odd bits of woods with edges well chamfered inwards, cemented between the formers and projecting slightly. These can then be sanded to shape, bringing the weight forward and making a good contour of the cowling..."

Supplementary file notes

Instructions.
Previous scan version.

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Datafile:
  • (oz11612)
    Hawker Typhoon 1B
    by HJ Towner
    from Astral
    1945 
    28in span
    Scale Rubber F/F LowWing Military Fighter Kit
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
  • Submitted: 30/09/2019
    Filesize: 1011KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: DBHL, GuyColeman

ScaleType:
  • Hawker_Typhoon | help
    see Wikipedia | search Outerzone


    ScaleType: This (oz11612) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.

    If we got this right, you now have a couple of direct links (above) to 1. see the Wikipedia page, and 2. search Oz for more plans of this type. If we didn't, then see below.


    Notes:
    ScaleType is formed from the last part of the Wikipedia page address, which here is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawker_Typhoon
    Wikipedia page addresses may well change over time.
    For more obscure types, there currently will be no Wiki page found. We tag these cases as ScaleType = NotFound. These will change over time.
    Corrections? Use the correction form to tell us the new/better ScaleType link we should be using. Thanks.

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User comments

George Hollingdale was a fairly prolific scale modeller in the 1990s, turning out a number of usually vintage designs with a great deal of skill, he was a gunsmith by trade and lived in Loughton Essex. Haven't seen him for a while, hopefully he is still around
Mike hollamby - 11/10/2019
It appears Mr Towner has made two variations on a theme. This Typhoon plan has a non-identical twin in oz4302 with the same wingspan but this one is rubber free flight and oz4302 is IC CL.
Miguel - 30/10/2019
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  • Hawker Typhoon 1B (oz11612)
  • Plan File Filesize: 1011KB Filename: Hawker_Typhoon_28in_oz11612_.pdf
  • Supplement Filesize: 1784KB Filename: Hawker_Typhoon_28in_oz11612_instructions.pdf
  • Supplement Filesize: 385KB Filename: Hawker_Typhoon_28in_oz11612_previous.pdf
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Notes

* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.

Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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